Sample Client 5

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect from ground level or eaves: A. The roof covering. B. The gutters. C. The downspouts. D. The vents, flashings, skylights, chimney and other roof penetrations. E. The general structure of the roof from the readily accessible panels, doors or stairs. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Walk on any roof surface. B. Predict the service life expectancy. C. Inspect underground downspout diverter drainage pipes. D. Remove snow, ice, debris or other conditions that prohibit the observation of the roof surfaces. E. Inspect antennae, lightning arresters, or similar attachments.

2. EXTERIOR

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The flashing and trim. B. All exterior doors, decks, stoops, steps, stairs, porches, railings, eaves, soffits, fascias, grading, and walkways. C. And report as in need of repair any spacings between intermediate balusters, spindles, or rails for steps, stairways, balconies, and railings that permit the passage of an object greater than four inches in diameter. D. The vegetation, surface drainage and retaining walls when these are likely to adversely affect the building. E. And describe the exterior wall covering. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect or operate screens, storm windows, shutters, awnings, fences, outbuildings, or exterior accent lighting. B. Inspect items, including window and door flashings, which are not visible or readily accessible from the ground. C. Inspect geological, geotechnical, or hydrological conditions. D. Inspect recreational facilities. E. Inspect seawalls, break-walls and docks. F. Inspect erosion control and earth stabilization measures. G. Inspect for safety type glass. H. Inspect underground utilities. I. Inspect underground items. J. Inspect wells or springs. K. Inspect solar systems. L. Inspect swimming pools or spas. M. Inspect septic systems or cesspools. N. Inspect playground equipment. O. Inspect sprinkler systems. P. Inspect drain fields or drywells. Q. Determine the integrity of the thermal window seals or damaged glass.

3. BASEMENT, FOUNDATION& STRUCTURE

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The basement. B. The foundation C. The crawlspace. D. The visible structural components. E. Any present conditions or indications of active water penetration by probing a representative sampling of structural components where deterioration is believed to be present or where clear indications of deterioration are present. F. And report any general indications of foundation movement that are observed, such as but not limited to sheetrock cracks, brick cracks, out-of-square door frames or floor slopes. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Enter any crawlspaces that are not readily accessible or where entry could cause damage or pose a hazard to the inspector in his or her opinion. B. Move stored items or debris. C. Operate sump pumps with inaccessible floats. D. Identify size, spacing, span, location or adequacy of foundation bolting, bracing, joists or support systems. E. Provide any engineering or architectural service. F. Report on the adequacy of any structural system or component.

4. HEATING SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The heating system and describe the energy source and heating method using normal operating controls. B. And report as in need of repair electric furnaces which do not operate. C. And report if inspector deemed the furnace inaccessible. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect or evaluate interiors of flues or chimneys, fire chambers, the heat exchanger, the humidifier or dehumidifier, the electronic air filter, solar heating systems or fuel tanks. B. Inspect underground fuel tanks. C. Determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the heating system. D. Light pilot flames. E. Activate heating, heat pump systems, or other heating systems when ambient temperatures or other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. F. Operate electronic thermostats. G. Evaluate fuel quality.

5. COOLING SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The central cooling equipment using normal operating controls.II. The inspector is not required to: A. Determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the cooling system. B. Inspect window units, through-wall units, or electronic air filters. C. Operate equipment or systems if exterior temperature is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit or when other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. D. Inspect or determine thermostat calibration, heat anticipation or automatic setbacks or clocks. E. Examine electrical current, coolant fluids or gasses, or coolant leakage.

6. PLUMBING SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall: A. Inspect the main water shut off valve. B. Inspect the water heating system. C. Flush toilets. D. Run water in sinks, tubs, and showers. E. Inspect the interior water supply including all fixtures and faucets. F. Inspect the drain, waste and vent systems, including all fixtures. G. Describe any visible fuel storage systems. H. Inspect the drainage sump pumps testing sumps with accessible floats. I. Inspect and describe the water supply, drain, waste and main fuel shut-off valves, as well as the location of the water main and main fuel shut-off valves. J. Inspect and determine if the water supply is public or private. K. Inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously. L. Inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in installation and identification of hot and cold faucets. M. Inspect and report as in need of repair mechanical drain-stops that are missing or do not operate if installed in sinks, lavatories and tubs. N. Inspect and report as in need of repair commodes that have cracks in the ceramic material, are improperly mounted on the floor, leak, or have tank components which do not operate. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Light pilot flames. B. Determine the size, temperature, age, life expectancy or adequacy of the water heater. C. Inspect interiors of flues or chimneys, water softening or filtering systems, well pumps or tanks, safety or shut-of valves, floor drains or sprinkler systems. D. Determine the exact flow rate, volume, pressure, temperature, or adequacy of the water supply. E. Determine the water quality or potability or the reliability of the water supply or source. F. Open closed plumbing access panels G. Inspect clothes washing machine connections. H. Operate any main, branch or fixture valve except fixture faucets and hose faucets attached to the building. I. Test shower pans, tub and shower surrounds or enclosures for leakage. J. Evaluate the compliance with local or state conservation or energy standards, or the proper design or sizing of any water, waste or venting components, fixtures or piping. K. Determine the effectiveness of anti-siphon, back-flow prevention or drain-stop devices. L. Determine whether there are sufficient clean-outs for effective cleaning of drains. M. Evaluate gas, liquid propane or oil storage tanks. N. Excavate or otherwise uncover the private sewage system or its components to determine size, adequacy or efficiency. O. Inspect water treatment systems or water filters. P. Inspect pressure pumps or bladder tanks.

7. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The service line. B. The meter box. C. The main disconnect. D. And determine the service amperage. E. Panels, breakers and fuses. F. The grounding. G. The bonding. H. A representative sampling of switches, receptacles, light fixtures, and ground circuit interrupters. I. And report the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch circuit wiring if readily visible. J. And report on any GFCI-tested receptacles in which power is not present, polarity is incorrect, the receptacle is not grounded, is not secured to the wall, the cover is not in place, the ground fault circuit interrupter devices are not properly installed or do not operate properly, or evidence of arcing or excessive heat is present. K. The service entrance conductors and the condition of their sheathing. L. The ground fault circuit interrupters with a GFCI tester. M. And describe the amperage rating of the service. N. And report the absence of smoke detectors. O. Service entrance cables and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the integrity of the insulation, drip loop, or separation of conductors at weatherheads and clearances. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Insert any tool, probe or device into the main or sub-panels. B. Operate electrical systems that are shut down. C. Remove panel covers or dead front covers if not readily accessible. D. Operate over current protection devices. E. Operate non-accessible smoke detectors. F. Measure or determine the amperage or voltage of the main service if not visibly labeled. G. Inspect the alarm system and components. H. Inspect the ancillary wiring. I. Activate any electrical systems or branch circuits which are not energized. J. Operate overload devices. K. Inspect low voltage systems, electrical de-icing tapes, swimming pool wiring or any time-controlled devices. L. Verify the continuity of the connected service ground. M. Inspect private or emergency electrical supply sources, including but not limited to generators, windmills, photovoltaic solar collectors, or battery or electrical storage facility. N. Inspect spark or lightning arrestors. O. Conduct drop voltage calculations. P. Determine the accuracy of breaker labeling.

8. FIREPLACE(S)

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The fireplace, and open and close the damper door if readily accessible and operable. B. Hearth extensions and other permanently installed components. C. And report as in need of repair deficiencies in the lintel, hearth and material surrounding the fireplace, including clearance from combustible materials II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect the vent system. B. Inspect the interior of the chimney or flue, fire doors or screens, seals or mantels. C. Determine the need for a chimney sweep. D. Operate gas fireplace inserts. E. Light pilot flames. F. Determine the appropriateness of such installation. G. Inspect automatic fuel feed devices. H. Inspect combustion make up devices. I. Inspect heat distribution assists whether gravity controlled or fan assisted. J. Ignite or extinguish fires. K. Determine draft characteristics. L. Move fireplace inserts, stoves, or firebox contents. M. Determine adequacy of draft, perform a smoke test or dismantle or remove any component.

9. ATTIC - VENTILATION, INSULATION& STRUCTURE

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The insulation in unfinished spaces. B. The ventilation of attic spaces. C. Mechanical ventilation systems. D. And report on the general absence or lack of insulation. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Enter the attic or unfinished spaces that are not readily accessible or where entry could cause damage or pose a safety hazard to the inspector in his or her opinion. B. To move or touch insulation. C. To move or touch vapor retarders. D. Break or otherwise damage the surface finish or weather seal on or around access panels and covers. E. Identify the composition or the exact R-value of insulation material. F. Activate thermostatically operated fans. G. Determine the types of materials used in insulation/wrapping of pipes, ducts, jackets, boilers, and wiring.

10. DOORS, WINDOWS& INTERIOR

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall: A. Open and close a representative number of doors and windows. B. Inspect the walls, ceilings, steps, stairways, and railings. C. Inspect garage doors and garage door openers by operating first by remote (if available) and then by the installed automatic door control. D. And report as in need of repair any installed electronic sensors that are not operable or not installed at proper heights above the garage door. E. And report as in need of repair any door locks or side ropes that have not been removed or disabled when garage door opener is in use. F. And report as in need of repair any windows that are obviously fogged or display other evidence of broken seals. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect paint, wallpaper, window treatments or finish treatments. B. Inspect central vacuum systems. C. Inspect safety glazing in locations subject to human impact. D. Inspect security components. E. Evaluate the fastening of countertops, cabinets, sink tops and fixtures, or firewall compromises. F. Move furniture, stored items, or any coverings like carpets or rugs in order to inspect the concealed floor structure. G. Move drop ceiling tiles. H. Inspect or move any household appliances. I. Inspect or operate equipment housed in the garage except as otherwise noted. J. Verify or certify safe operation of any auto reverse or related safety function of a garage door. K. Operate or evaluate security bar release and opening mechanisms, whether interior or exterior, including compliance with local, state, or federal standards. L. Operate any system, appliance or component that requires the use of special keys, codes, combinations, or devices. M. Operate or evaluate self-cleaning oven cycles or signal lights. N. Determine leakage from microwave ovens. O. Operate or examine any sauna, steam-jenny, kiln, toaster, ice-maker, coffee-maker, can-opener, bread-warmer, blender, instant hot water dispenser, or other small, ancillary devices. P. Inspect elevators. Q. Inspect central vacuums. R. Inspect appliances. S. Inspect items not permanently installed. T. Examine or operate any above-ground, movable, freestanding, or otherwise non-permanently installed pool/spa or self-contained equipment. U. Come into contact with any pool or spa water in order to determine the system structure or components. V. Determine the adequacy of spa jet water force or bubble effect. W. Determine the structural integrity or leakage of a pool or spa.

11. BUILT-IN KITCHEN APPLIANCES

Not a part of the National Association of Home Inspectors Standards of Practice and performed as a curtesy for client(s): I. The home inspector may observe and operate the basic functions of the following kitchen appliances: Permanently installed dishwasher, through its normal cycle; Range, cook top, and permanently installed oven; Trash compactor; Garbage disposal; Ventilation equipment or range hood; and Permanently installed microwave oven. The home inspector is not required to observe: Clocks, timers, self-cleaning oven function, or thermostats for calibration or automatic operation; Non built-in appliances; or Refrigeration units. The home inspector is not required to operate: Appliances in use; or Any appliance that is shut down or otherwise inoperable.

12. COMPLIMENTARY PHOTO VIEWS

Not a part of the National Association of Home Inspectors Standards of Practice and performed as a curtesy for client(s).

13. HOME VALUE IMPROVEMENT STRATEGIES

SUMMARY

Ann Arbor Home Inspection

P.O. Box 7300
Ann Arbor, Michigan 48107
(734) 369-3003

The following items or discoveries indicate that these systems or components do not function as intended; or need attention, repair or maintenance; or adversely affect the habitabilty of the dwelling; or appear to warrant further investigation by a specialist, or require subsequent observation.

This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component to maintain it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function, efficiency, or safety of the home.

This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report.

1. ROOF

1.3 ROOFING DRAINAGE SYSTEMS

Inspected, Repair or Replace

Upon arrival at the home, I found all of the eavestrough extensions removed from the downspouts. It is possible that all downspouts have been contributing water to the foundation walls and adding unnecessary moisture to the basement area. I would suggest that you add extensions to all of the downspouts and be very careful to make sure no water flows back toward the foundation walls. A review of all of the downspouts are included in pictures 1-5.

2. EXTERIOR

2.3 DECKS, BALCONIES, STOOPS, STEPS, AREAWAYS, PORCHES AND APPLICABLE RAILINGS

Inspected

1. The existing deck in the back yard is in good condition (pictures 1-8). However, it is weathering and could use a good cleaning and sealing with a gray weathered type of stain. I would suggest that you clean the deck with a good deck cleaner and bristle brush. Rinse the deck and let dry for a number of days. When dry, coat with one to two coats of gray weathered type stain. Because of the more fragile condition of the deck, I wouldn't use a power washer at this time. The deck cleaner used alone would be most appropriate.
2. The railings are becoming loose and some additional bolts could be added to make the railings more solid (pictures 9-12).
3. I inspected the underside of the deck from around the bottom area and the inside of the basement window access cover. The underside of the deck appears to be in good condition. I've provided pictures x-x for documentation (pictures 13-16).

2.4 VEGETATION, GRADING, DRAINAGE, DRIVEWAYS, PATIOS, WALKWAYS AND RETAINING WALLS (With respect to their effect on the condition of the building)

Inspected

1. Drainage in general is in good condition around the perimeter of the house. However, the lack of eavestrough downspout extensions over the last three years has added humidity to the basement area. Make sure these extensions are in place on a permanent basis. See pictures 1-5.
2. In addition, two of the basement windows, one original window on the driveway side (picture 6) and the other near the brick chimney on the boiler room side (picture 7) are allowing water to leak into the basement area over a long period of time. Consider replacing these windows with new tight thermal pane windows. You could use a custom ordered to fit vinyl window for both which would allow greater insulation, water tightness as well as ventilation when needed.
3. The concrete slab at the entrance to the driveway immediately adjacent to the street is cracked and needs replacement (picture 8).

2.6 GARAGE

Inspected

1. The garage is in poor condition. The back wall is no longer supporting the roof and is dry rotted (picture 1).
2. There are a number of areas around the perimeter of the garage where there are large holes and dry rot (pictures 2-3). It would be advisable to replace trim board and to fill these holes so water penetration is eliminated.
3. The roofing on both sections (front and rear) of the garage are in need of replacement (pictures 4-9).
4. There is a crack on the right side of the garage stucco wall (when facing the garage door) which could be easily repaired (picture 10).

3. BASEMENT, FOUNDATION& STRUCTURE

3.0 FOUNDATIONS (Report signs of abnormal or harmful water penetration into the building or signs of abnormal or harmful condensation on building components.)

Inspected, Repair or Replace

There are two areas of the basement foundation which have received water penetration over time. One is the old basement window located on the West driveway side which has allowed water to seep behind the pine paneling (picture 1). The other is the old basement window which is located in the boiler room (picture 2).The water that has leaked around this window opening has allowed the brick near the fireplace cleanout to become soft (pictures 3-4). Both window problems could be corrected by replacement of the windows and/or addition of a plastic window well cover which would prevent water from seeping into both windows.

6. PLUMBING SYSTEM

6.4 INTERIOR WATER SUPPLY AND DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS AND FIXTURES

Inspected, Repair or Replace

1. The left cold water faucet hand is loose and needs repair in the 1/2 bath on the main floor (picture 1).
2. The bath tub fill faucet in the upstairs bath leaks when the water is running and needs a new washer (picture 2). Both of the other two valves operate properly.
3. The bath tub surround needs to have the old latex based caulk removed since it is full of mildew growth and replaced preferably with sanded grout (pictures 3-4). Sanded grout can be cleaned when full of mildew growth and matches the grout that is already used for the adjoining tiles. Latex type grout cannot be cleaned.
4. The basement toilet is loose on the floor and needs shims to level it and then tightening (picture 5).

7. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

7.1 SERVICE AND GROUNDING EQUIPMENT, MAIN OVERCURRENT DEVICE, MAIN AND DISTRIBUTION PANELS

Inspected, Repair or Replace

The service and ground equipment, main overcurrent device and the main distribution panel appear to be in good condition (see picture 1). However, there are two double taps in the panel one on the right side (picture 2) and one on the left side (picture 3). A double tap is where an electrical circuit was added to the panel and instead of adding a new circuit breaker, the new wire is attached to the hot terminal screw next to an existing circuit wire. Because the electrical panel is full and there aren't any spaces left for two new circuit breakers, I recommend that an electrician convert two of the single switch breakers to double switch breakers to accommodate the two double taps.

7.5 POLARITY AND GROUNDING OF RECEPTACLES WITHIN 6 FEET OF INTERIOR PLUMBING FIXTURES, AND ALL RECEPTACLES IN GARAGE, CARPORT, EXTERIOR WALLS OF INSPECTED STRUCTURE

Inspected, Repair or Replace

Both bathrooms have GFCI outlets but the kitchen does not. For electrical safety, I recommend that you add three GFCI outlets near the kitchen sink.

10. DOORS, WINDOWS& INTERIOR

10.0 CEILINGS

Inspected, Repair or Replace

1. Paint is peeling on the dining room ceiling in a number of places (picture 1). Sand the edges of the peeling areas, prime and touch up to blend in to the existing paint.
2. Paint is peeling on the living room ceiling close to the fireplace (picture 2) and near the ceiling light by the staircase (picture 3). Sand the edges of the peeling areas, prime and touch up to blend in to the existing paint.
3. There is a small patch of peeling over the stair case landing (picture 4). Lightly sand and touch up to blend into existing paint.
4. There is cracked paint over the bath tub and numerous patches from past repair (picture 5). In addition, there are some additional cracks in the bath room ceiling and cracking at the edge and inside of the skylight. Because bath rooms contain moisture from baths and showers, I would highly recommend that you sand, prime and then paint the entire ceiling with a mildew resistant paint to preserve the ceiling over time.
5. There are a few small nail holes and a fire detector bracket without a detector on the side bedroom ceiling (picture 6). I recommend removing the bracket and filling the few small holes and then touching up to blend in to the rest of the ceiling.
6. There are large areas of peeling pain on the ceiling of the side bedroom closet which should be scraped, sanded, primed and the entire ceiling of the closet painted.
7. There is a room width crack in the back bedroom ceiling where the flat ceiling meets the sloping ceiling portion (picture 8). Repair this crack and paint to blend in.

10.1 WALLS

Inspected, Repair or Replace

1. There are slight cracks on the wall to the left of the dining room French door (picture 1).
2. The are a few picture nail holes in the living room which would be easy to fill and touch up to blend in (picture 2-3).
3. There is a hole in the wall on the 2nd floor hallway where the front bedroom door knob has hit the wall (picture 4). Patch and touch up to blend in to the existing paint.
4. There is minimal nail and screw removal to do, fill and touch up in the side bedroom walls (picture 5).
5. There is evidence of past peeling paint in the rear bedroom walls which have been painted with a darker colored paint and do not need further attention (picture 6).
6. Remove and fill and touch up the nail hole in the 1/2 bath room wall (picture 7).

10.2 FLOORS

Inspected, Repair or Replace

1. There is staining and uneven coloration in the floor finish in the living room particularly under the 9 by 12 foot rug in front of the fireplace (picture 1).
2. The dining room floor finish is worn and has light scratches (picture 2).
3. The office floor finish is worn and has light scratches (picture 3).
4. The staircase landing finish has worn, aged and thin finish at the exposed edges (picture 4).
5. The color of the finish on the landing, the side and the back bedroom floors (picture 5). These three areas could be cleaned and a coat of varnish applied. The front bedroom finish (picture 6), however, is very worn and the color no longer matches the hallway finish color. You could have the front bedroom floor sanded, stained, and then varnished to match the existing floors.

10.4 COUNTERS AND A REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER OF CABINETS

Inspected, Repair or Replace

1. There is finish wear on the cabinet doors and surfaces and edges of the face frames behind the doors (pictures 1-4). I would highly recommend that you very lightly sand the worn areas (not to remove finish but to blend in the existing finish edges) and then touch up any exposed wood with a matching stain and then use a high quality china bristle brush to apply one coat of polyurethane varnish. This would be relatively easy to do and would bring the cabinets back to a nearly new condition.
2. It appears the kitchen counters are made from a Corian or similar material (picture 5). Even though there are some cuts and light surface scratching, you could hire a corian counter installer to sand and buff the counters to like new condition.
3. The bottom of the left side refrigerator side panel has received some moisture in the past and is slightly delaminated at the bottom of the panel which rests on the floor (picture 6). The panel could be glued, clamped and refinished at this bottom edge to make it more durable over time.

10.5 DOORS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER)

Inspected, Repair or Replace

1. The very beautiful mission style living room entry door has been originally chiseled out to hold a mortise lock set (pictures 1-2). Currently, there is a normal brass lockset installed and I would highly recommend that you replace it with a new mortise door lockset or one that you acquire used from a place like Materials Unlimited in Ypsilanti, Michigan. The door, wood work and style of the house deserve to have a really nice lockset installed in the entry door.
2. The staircase glass and oak door hits the top of the door jamb and will not close (picture 3). All that is necessary to repair the door is to plane off a small amount at the top lock side of the door.
3. The office entry door hits the top of the door jamb and should be planed at the top lock side of the door to repair (picture 4).
4. The 1/2 bath entry door on the bath room side has peeling paint which should be repaired and painted (picture 5).
5. The dining room closet door rubs on the lock side of the door jamb and needs to be planed to fit better (picture 6).
6. The bath room door on the 2nd floor is missing a strike plate and does not latch (picture 7). Install a new strike plate to fix.
7. The front bedroom door runs away from the wall (picture 8) on its own and needs a door stop to keep open. There is approximately a 1/4 inch crack between the door and the door stop at the bottom of the door when it is closed (picture 9). This could be adjusted and is part of the character of an old house. I wouldn't see this as a problem but would definitely repair the door to make it work better.

5. The dining room closet door rubs the door jamb at the

ROOF TYPE: GABLE	ROOF COVERING: ASPHALT	VIEWED ROOF COVERING FROM: WALKED ROOF
SKY LIGHT (S): ONE	CHIMNEY (exterior): BRICK

SIDING STYLE: STUCCO	SIDING MATERIAL: STUCCO	EXTERIOR ENTRY DOORS: WOOD
WINDOW TYPES: AGED SINGLE-HUNG STORM WINDOWS	WINDOW MANUFACTURER: UNKNOWN	APPURTENANCE: DECK WITH STEPS UNHEATED PORCH ROOM
AUTO OPENER MANUFACTURER: CRAFTSMAN	GARAGE DOOR MATERIAL: METAL	GARAGE DOOR TYPE: ONE MANUAL
DRIVEWAY: ASPHALT

FOUNDATION: MASONRY BLOCK	METHOD USED TO OBSERVE CRAWLSPACE: NO CRAWLSPACE	FLOOR STRUCTURE: SLAB
WALL STRUCTURE: MASONRY	COLUMNS OR PIERS: MASONRY BLOCK	CEILING STRUCTURE: 2X10

HEAT TYPE: CIRCULATING BOILER	ENERGY SOURCE: GAS	NUMBER OF HEAT SYSTEMS (excluding wood): ONE
HEAT SYSTEM BRAND: WEIL MCLEAN	DUCTWORK: N/A	FILTER TYPE: N/A

WATER SOURCE: PUBLIC	WATER FILTERS: NONE	PLUMBING SUPPLY: COPPER
PLUMBING DISTRIBUTION: COPPER	WASHER DRAIN SIZE: 2" DIAMETER	PLUMBING WASTE: CAST IRON
WATER HEATER POWER SOURCE: GAS (QUICK RECOVERY)	MANUFACTURER: A.O. SMITH	CAPACITY: 40 GAL (1-2 PEOPLE)

ELECTRICAL CONDUCTORS: ABOVE GROUND	PANEL CAPACITY: 100 AMP	PANEL TYPE: CIRCUITS
ELEC. PANEL MANUFACTURER: SQUARE D	BRANCH WIRE 15 and 20 AMP: COPPER	WIRING METHODS: ROMEX

ROOF STRUCTURE: 2x6 RAFTERS	ATTIC INSULATION: FIBERGLASS	R- VALUE: BELOW R-19
VENTILATION: PASSIVE ROOF VENTS	EXHAUST FAN TYPES: FAN WITH LIGHT	DRYER POWER SOURCE: GAS CONNECTION
DRYER VENT: FLEXIBLE METAL

CEILING MATERIALS: PLASTER	WALL MATERIAL: PLASTER	FLOOR COVERING(S): WOOD TILE VINYL
INTERIOR DOORS: SOLID	CABINETRY: WOOD	COUNTERTOP: CORIAN COMPOSITE
REFRIGERATOR OPENING WIDTH: 36 INCHES	REFRIGERATOR OPENING HEIGHT: 72 INCHES

EXHAUST/RANGE HOOD: NONE	DISPOSER: IN SINK ERATOR	DISHWASHER: WHIRLPOOL
RANGE/OVEN: JENN AIR	BUILT-IN MICROWAVE: NONE	COOKTOP: KITCHEN AID
REFRIGERATOR: WHIRLPOOL

1.3	ROOFING DRAINAGE SYSTEMS
	Inspected, Repair or Replace
	Upon arrival at the home, I found all of the eavestrough extensions removed from the downspouts. It is possible that all downspouts have been contributing water to the foundation walls and adding unnecessary moisture to the basement area. I would suggest that you add extensions to all of the downspouts and be very careful to make sure no water flows back toward the foundation walls. A review of all of the downspouts are included in pictures 1-5.

2.3	DECKS, BALCONIES, STOOPS, STEPS, AREAWAYS, PORCHES AND APPLICABLE RAILINGS
	Inspected
	1. The existing deck in the back yard is in good condition (pictures 1-8). However, it is weathering and could use a good cleaning and sealing with a gray weathered type of stain. I would suggest that you clean the deck with a good deck cleaner and bristle brush. Rinse the deck and let dry for a number of days. When dry, coat with one to two coats of gray weathered type stain. Because of the more fragile condition of the deck, I wouldn't use a power washer at this time. The deck cleaner used alone would be most appropriate. 2. The railings are becoming loose and some additional bolts could be added to make the railings more solid (pictures 9-12). 3. I inspected the underside of the deck from around the bottom area and the inside of the basement window access cover. The underside of the deck appears to be in good condition. I've provided pictures x-x for documentation (pictures 13-16).
2.4	VEGETATION, GRADING, DRAINAGE, DRIVEWAYS, PATIOS, WALKWAYS AND RETAINING WALLS (With respect to their effect on the condition of the building)
	Inspected
	1. Drainage in general is in good condition around the perimeter of the house. However, the lack of eavestrough downspout extensions over the last three years has added humidity to the basement area. Make sure these extensions are in place on a permanent basis. See pictures 1-5. 2. In addition, two of the basement windows, one original window on the driveway side (picture 6) and the other near the brick chimney on the boiler room side (picture 7) are allowing water to leak into the basement area over a long period of time. Consider replacing these windows with new tight thermal pane windows. You could use a custom ordered to fit vinyl window for both which would allow greater insulation, water tightness as well as ventilation when needed. 3. The concrete slab at the entrance to the driveway immediately adjacent to the street is cracked and needs replacement (picture 8).
2.6	GARAGE
	Inspected
	1. The garage is in poor condition. The back wall is no longer supporting the roof and is dry rotted (picture 1). 2. There are a number of areas around the perimeter of the garage where there are large holes and dry rot (pictures 2-3). It would be advisable to replace trim board and to fill these holes so water penetration is eliminated. 3. The roofing on both sections (front and rear) of the garage are in need of replacement (pictures 4-9). 4. There is a crack on the right side of the garage stucco wall (when facing the garage door) which could be easily repaired (picture 10).

3.0	FOUNDATIONS (Report signs of abnormal or harmful water penetration into the building or signs of abnormal or harmful condensation on building components.)
	Inspected, Repair or Replace
	There are two areas of the basement foundation which have received water penetration over time. One is the old basement window located on the West driveway side which has allowed water to seep behind the pine paneling (picture 1). The other is the old basement window which is located in the boiler room (picture 2).The water that has leaked around this window opening has allowed the brick near the fireplace cleanout to become soft (pictures 3-4). Both window problems could be corrected by replacement of the windows and/or addition of a plastic window well cover which would prevent water from seeping into both windows.

6.4	INTERIOR WATER SUPPLY AND DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS AND FIXTURES
	Inspected, Repair or Replace
	1. The left cold water faucet hand is loose and needs repair in the 1/2 bath on the main floor (picture 1). 2. The bath tub fill faucet in the upstairs bath leaks when the water is running and needs a new washer (picture 2). Both of the other two valves operate properly. 3. The bath tub surround needs to have the old latex based caulk removed since it is full of mildew growth and replaced preferably with sanded grout (pictures 3-4). Sanded grout can be cleaned when full of mildew growth and matches the grout that is already used for the adjoining tiles. Latex type grout cannot be cleaned. 4. The basement toilet is loose on the floor and needs shims to level it and then tightening (picture 5).

7.1	SERVICE AND GROUNDING EQUIPMENT, MAIN OVERCURRENT DEVICE, MAIN AND DISTRIBUTION PANELS
	Inspected, Repair or Replace
	The service and ground equipment, main overcurrent device and the main distribution panel appear to be in good condition (see picture 1). However, there are two double taps in the panel one on the right side (picture 2) and one on the left side (picture 3). A double tap is where an electrical circuit was added to the panel and instead of adding a new circuit breaker, the new wire is attached to the hot terminal screw next to an existing circuit wire. Because the electrical panel is full and there aren't any spaces left for two new circuit breakers, I recommend that an electrician convert two of the single switch breakers to double switch breakers to accommodate the two double taps.
7.5	POLARITY AND GROUNDING OF RECEPTACLES WITHIN 6 FEET OF INTERIOR PLUMBING FIXTURES, AND ALL RECEPTACLES IN GARAGE, CARPORT, EXTERIOR WALLS OF INSPECTED STRUCTURE
	Inspected, Repair or Replace
	Both bathrooms have GFCI outlets but the kitchen does not. For electrical safety, I recommend that you add three GFCI outlets near the kitchen sink.

10.0	CEILINGS
	Inspected, Repair or Replace
	1. Paint is peeling on the dining room ceiling in a number of places (picture 1). Sand the edges of the peeling areas, prime and touch up to blend in to the existing paint. 2. Paint is peeling on the living room ceiling close to the fireplace (picture 2) and near the ceiling light by the staircase (picture 3). Sand the edges of the peeling areas, prime and touch up to blend in to the existing paint. 3. There is a small patch of peeling over the stair case landing (picture 4). Lightly sand and touch up to blend into existing paint. 4. There is cracked paint over the bath tub and numerous patches from past repair (picture 5). In addition, there are some additional cracks in the bath room ceiling and cracking at the edge and inside of the skylight. Because bath rooms contain moisture from baths and showers, I would highly recommend that you sand, prime and then paint the entire ceiling with a mildew resistant paint to preserve the ceiling over time. 5. There are a few small nail holes and a fire detector bracket without a detector on the side bedroom ceiling (picture 6). I recommend removing the bracket and filling the few small holes and then touching up to blend in to the rest of the ceiling. 6. There are large areas of peeling pain on the ceiling of the side bedroom closet which should be scraped, sanded, primed and the entire ceiling of the closet painted. 7. There is a room width crack in the back bedroom ceiling where the flat ceiling meets the sloping ceiling portion (picture 8). Repair this crack and paint to blend in.
10.1	WALLS
	Inspected, Repair or Replace
	1. There are slight cracks on the wall to the left of the dining room French door (picture 1). 2. The are a few picture nail holes in the living room which would be easy to fill and touch up to blend in (picture 2-3). 3. There is a hole in the wall on the 2nd floor hallway where the front bedroom door knob has hit the wall (picture 4). Patch and touch up to blend in to the existing paint. 4. There is minimal nail and screw removal to do, fill and touch up in the side bedroom walls (picture 5). 5. There is evidence of past peeling paint in the rear bedroom walls which have been painted with a darker colored paint and do not need further attention (picture 6). 6. Remove and fill and touch up the nail hole in the 1/2 bath room wall (picture 7).
10.2	FLOORS
	Inspected, Repair or Replace
	1. There is staining and uneven coloration in the floor finish in the living room particularly under the 9 by 12 foot rug in front of the fireplace (picture 1). 2. The dining room floor finish is worn and has light scratches (picture 2). 3. The office floor finish is worn and has light scratches (picture 3). 4. The staircase landing finish has worn, aged and thin finish at the exposed edges (picture 4). 5. The color of the finish on the landing, the side and the back bedroom floors (picture 5). These three areas could be cleaned and a coat of varnish applied. The front bedroom finish (picture 6), however, is very worn and the color no longer matches the hallway finish color. You could have the front bedroom floor sanded, stained, and then varnished to match the existing floors.
10.4	COUNTERS AND A REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER OF CABINETS
	Inspected, Repair or Replace
	1. There is finish wear on the cabinet doors and surfaces and edges of the face frames behind the doors (pictures 1-4). I would highly recommend that you very lightly sand the worn areas (not to remove finish but to blend in the existing finish edges) and then touch up any exposed wood with a matching stain and then use a high quality china bristle brush to apply one coat of polyurethane varnish. This would be relatively easy to do and would bring the cabinets back to a nearly new condition. 2. It appears the kitchen counters are made from a Corian or similar material (picture 5). Even though there are some cuts and light surface scratching, you could hire a corian counter installer to sand and buff the counters to like new condition. 3. The bottom of the left side refrigerator side panel has received some moisture in the past and is slightly delaminated at the bottom of the panel which rests on the floor (picture 6). The panel could be glued, clamped and refinished at this bottom edge to make it more durable over time.
10.5	DOORS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER)
	Inspected, Repair or Replace
	1. The very beautiful mission style living room entry door has been originally chiseled out to hold a mortise lock set (pictures 1-2). Currently, there is a normal brass lockset installed and I would highly recommend that you replace it with a new mortise door lockset or one that you acquire used from a place like Materials Unlimited in Ypsilanti, Michigan. The door, wood work and style of the house deserve to have a really nice lockset installed in the entry door. 2. The staircase glass and oak door hits the top of the door jamb and will not close (picture 3). All that is necessary to repair the door is to plane off a small amount at the top lock side of the door. 3. The office entry door hits the top of the door jamb and should be planed at the top lock side of the door to repair (picture 4). 4. The 1/2 bath entry door on the bath room side has peeling paint which should be repaired and painted (picture 5). 5. The dining room closet door rubs on the lock side of the door jamb and needs to be planed to fit better (picture 6). 6. The bath room door on the 2nd floor is missing a strike plate and does not latch (picture 7). Install a new strike plate to fix. 7. The front bedroom door runs away from the wall (picture 8) on its own and needs a door stop to keep open. There is approximately a 1/4 inch crack between the door and the door stop at the bottom of the door when it is closed (picture 9). This could be adjusted and is part of the character of an old house. I wouldn't see this as a problem but would definitely repair the door to make it work better. 5. The dining room closet door rubs the door jamb at the

Inspection Report

Ann Arbor Home Inspection

1. ROOF