Ann Arbor Home Inspection http://www.annarborhomeinspection.com P.O. Box 7300 Ann Arbor, Michigan 48107 (734) 369-3003 richard@annarborhomeinspection.com

Client Sample Client 4 (100+ year old home that needs considerable repair)

Home 1234 Street Name Ann Arbor, MI

Real Estate Agent None

Inspection Date  Tuesday, April 13, 2004 Weather: Cloudy Report ID: 0413041

Temperature: Below 65 Inspected By  Richard H. Becker

1. ROOF

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect from ground level or eaves: A. The roof covering. B. The gutters. C. The downspouts. D. The vents, flashings, skylights, chimney and other roof penetrations. E. The general structure of the roof from the readily accessible panels, doors or stairs. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Walk on any roof surface. B. Predict the service life expectancy. C. Inspect underground downspout diverter drainage pipes. D. Remove snow, ice, debris or other conditions that prohibit the observation of the roof surfaces. E. Inspect antennae, lightning arresters, or similar attachments.

1.2	SKYLIGHTS, CHIMNEYS AND ROOF PENETRATIONS Comments: Repair or Replace The outside chimney is missing some brick and could use some maintenance and attention. It appears stable, however, and new mortar and even a clear coat of waterproofing would help extend the life of the chimney.

1.3

ROOFING DRAINAGE SYSTEMS Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7 Comments: Repair or Replace 1. In pictures 1 through 6, you will see that all of the eavestrough downspouts are missing extensions to carry water away from the foundation. Because you have an old porous brick foundation, it is extremely important to add extensions to all downspouts. This might be causing the paint peeling on the furnace wall in the basement since there are two downspouts in that location plus a window well - all of which could be allowing water to come against the foundation wall. 2. Picture 7 is the back of the house eavestrough. It is missing an end cap.

2. EXTERIOR

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The flashing and trim. B. All exterior doors, decks, stoops, steps, stairs, porches, railings, eaves, soffits, fascias, grading, and walkways. C. And report as in need of repair any spacings between intermediate balusters, spindles, or rails for steps, stairways, balconies, and railings that permit the passage of an object greater than four inches in diameter. D. The vegetation, surface drainage and retaining walls when these are likely to adversely affect the building. E. And describe the exterior wall covering. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect or operate screens, storm windows, shutters, awnings, fences, outbuildings, or exterior accent lighting. B. Inspect items, including window and door flashings, which are not visible or readily accessible from the ground. C. Inspect geological, geotechnical, or hydrological conditions. D. Inspect recreational facilities. E. Inspect seawalls, break-walls and docks. F. Inspect erosion control and earth stabilization measures. G. Inspect for safety type glass. H. Inspect underground utilities. I. Inspect underground items. J. Inspect wells or springs. K. Inspect solar systems. L. Inspect swimming pools or spas. M. Inspect septic systems or cesspools. N. Inspect playground equipment. O. Inspect sprinkler systems. P. Inspect drain fields or drywells. Q. Determine the integrity of the thermal window seals or damaged glass.

2.0

WALL CLADDING FLASHING AND TRIM Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 Comments: Repair or Replace 1. Dirt drive coming from sidewalk toward house has a deep depression and should be filled. Consider adding new gravel to both bring the level up correctly as well as to make the house look more attractive. See picture 1. 2. Area next to driveway along street also has a deep depression and should be filled. See picture 2. 3. Sidewalk in front of the tree next to the street has a trip hazard which could be fixed by adding more asphalt fill material. See picture 3. 4. Sidewalk coming from street toward front door has another trip hazard. Could fix temporarily with asphalt patch and ideally by mudjacking (having a company pump cement under the lowered portion to raise the slab so it is level). See picture 4. 5. Another trip hazard heading toward the porch from the street. This one is closest to the porch itself. See picture 5. 6. Picture 6 shows the exterior brick foundation on one wall of the house. All of the exterior bricks that are visible should be re-pointed (re-mortared) and because they are old and porous, it would be worth painting them with a clear coat of exterior waterproofing to prevent moisture absorptance.

2.3	DECKS, BALCONIES, STOOPS, STEPS, AREAWAYS, PORCHES AND APPLICABLE RAILINGS Comments: Repair or Replace The vinyl siding on the inside of the front porch wall right next to the entry door is coming off the wall. It needs to be repaired.

3. BASEMENT, FOUNDATION, CRAWLSPACE & STRUCTURE

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The basement. B. The foundation C. The crawlspace. D. The visible structural components. E. Any present conditions or indications of active water penetration by probing a representative sampling of structural components where deterioration is believed to be present or where clear indications of deterioration are present. F. And report any general indications of foundation movement that are observed, such as but not limited to sheetrock cracks, brick cracks, out-of-square door frames or floor slopes. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Enter any crawlspaces that are not readily accessible or where entry could cause damage or pose a hazard to the inspector in his or her opinion. B. Move stored items or debris. C. Operate sump pumps with inaccessible floats. D. Identify size, spacing, span, location or adequacy of foundation bolting, bracing, joists or support systems. E. Provide any engineering or architectural service. F. Report on the adequacy of any structural system or component.

3.0

FOUNDATIONS (Report signs of abnormal or harmful water penetration into the building or signs of abnormal or harmful condensation on building components.) Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7 Picture 8 Picture 9 Comments: Repair or Replace 1. This house is over 100 years old and we spent a considerable amount of time examining the basement, foundation and mechanical systems. It appears that the original foundation was built out of solid brick and over time, an interior concrete block wall was added in front of the brick wall to help hold the original wall from caving into the basement area. This concrete wall is laid on the concrete floor, but does not extend all the way vertically to the floor joists as does the original brick wall. Upon close examination, the only area where the block wall appears to have suffered from movement of the outer brick wall is one horizontal crack next to the electrical panel. The area behind the furnace appears to be suffering from paint peeling which is a sign of excessive moisture, but no moisture was observed at the time of the inspection. There was an indented area directly below the upstairs bathroom which still had one exposed full brick wall and even though the bricks were flaking and not in the best looking shape, the wall was dry and intact. In addition, the original coal bin still had the original brick wall and it was intact. Photo #1 shows the horizontal crack near the electrical panel. 2. Picture 2 shows a closer look at the exposed brick above the concrete block wall. It isn't possible to project what if any pressure will be applied on the concrete block inner walls from the brick foundation. In addition, it isn't possible with a visual inspection to determine the condition of the brick foundation walls below ground level using a visual examination. Visual evidence suggests that the house is being supported by these walls and the walls are intact and carrying the downward load of the house. Yet, over time, there could be deterioration of the walls that we can't see. If there had been to this time, we would probably see more evidence of pushing in of the concrete block walls. 3. The central portion of the house is supported by two beam systems which form the shape of a T. Picture 3 shows one leg of this system. 4. Picture 4 shows the other leg of the beam support system. Both beams appear to be carrying the span weight of the house well. 5. However, as you enter the basement from the stairwell, you will find the right side of the first beam has a post which is not attached. Remove this post (shown in picture 5) and the other 2x4 and 2x6 corner pieces. These small pieces are a handyman fix and aren't accomplishing what the beam should. Replace the old beam with a new steel screw jack. 6. Picture 6 shows a view of the corner area immediately underneath the upstairs bathroom. This is where there is one fully exposed brick wall. You can get a feel for the construction of the brick foundation walls by examining this one. This area needs cleaning. 7. Picture 7 shows a view of the original coal bin which still has the original brick walls and no inner concrete wall. Again, this will give you a better view of what the foundation looks like behind the concrete block inner walls. 8. Picture 8 shows a stained area where the inner wall meets the concrete floor immediately next to the area described in 6 above (under the main bath). It is difficult to tell what caused the discoloration. The area wasn't wet when examined and I suggest scrapping all of the loose paint from the inner concrete block walls and painting them with new paint. The walls are solid, but cosmetically look bad. 9. Picture 9 shows an area on the concrete floor which is discolored. The dark area wasn't wet and might be signs of oil spill. It was possible that the original coal burning furnace was converted to oil before going to a forced air gas system. This might be an oil spill from that era. There were two pipes coming from the outside of the house on the driveway side near the electrical panel that could have been the oil fill and vent pipes. I suggest that you use a degreaser cleaner and try to clean the concrete floor and ultimately paint it. If the basement was cleaned and painted and all handyman fixes corrected and removed, the entire area would look much better.

3.1

FLOORS (Structural) Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Repair or Replace 1. When you enter the basement from the stairs, the floor immediately above the area at the base of the stairs is in poor condition. The entire floor extending from the base of the stairs to the T beam post support is questionable. Plywood underlayment has been placed on top of the original floor boards. Where you see the arrows in picture 1 and 2, you will notice the original floor boards are hanging loose and are unsupported by a floor joist. I suggest that you build up the existing floor joist to support the edges of these floor boards. In addition, there is a temporary steel jack attached to two sandwiched 2x4s approximately 5 feet long being used to support these original floor boards. By adding the extension to the original floor joist, you will be able to remove this floor jack. In addition, if you consider replacing the underlayment upstairs as part of your remodeling, you should be able to end up with a better floor system. 2. In addition, it appears that the underside of these original floor boards were charred and painted over. This suggests that there may have been a fire at one time in the basement area. Another good reason to consider replacing the underlayment and floor boards when remodeling above. 3. In general, all of the floors in the house lean and slope considerably and are far from level. Obviously there has been considerable settling of the house over the years and the floors illustrate this more than anything else. The only floor that needs maintenance attention is the underlayment area which is part of the main bath, kitchen and back bedroom floor system. This is mentioned in the paragraph above.

4. HEATING SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The heating system and describe the energy source and heating method using normal operating controls. B. And report as in need of repair electric furnaces which do not operate. C. And report if inspector deemed the furnace inaccessible. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect or evaluate interiors of flues or chimneys, fire chambers, the heat exchanger, the humidifier or dehumidifier, the electronic air filter, solar heating systems or fuel tanks. B. Inspect underground fuel tanks. C. Determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the heating system. D. Light pilot flames. E. Activate heating, heat pump systems, or other heating systems when ambient temperatures or other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. F. Operate electronic thermostats. G. Evaluate fuel quality.

4.0

HEATING EQUIPMENT Comments: Inspected 1. Even though there weren't any apparent gas leaks, the iron pipe gas lines are very old and rusted. In addition, there are long runs of pipe which are not supported and are hanging free from the ceiling joists. I would consider replacing these pipes just to know the lines are in good condition. At minimum, you need to use pipe hangers and support the lines so the joints aren't stressed and cause leaks. 2. The furnace was installed in October of 1998 according to the inspection hang tag. The burners appear to work well, but upon first examination, there was a considerable amount of rust around the burner openings and inside the service area of the furnace. I don't know what might have caused this and would suggest watching the humidity in the basement throughout a year's time. You should consider operating a dehumidifier during the summer months. It may be possible that a washer and dryer was connected at one time and without venting, the moisture of the basement area could have been very high. But without really knowing, monitoring is required. The furnace filter is extremely dirty and should be replaced as soon as you take possession of the house.

6. PLUMBING SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall: A. Inspect the main water shut off valve. B. Inspect the water heating system. C. Flush toilets. D. Run water in sinks, tubs, and showers. E. Inspect the interior water supply including all fixtures and faucets. F. Inspect the drain, waste and vent systems, including all fixtures. G. Describe any visible fuel storage systems. H. Inspect the drainage sump pumps testing sumps with accessible floats. I. Inspect and describe the water supply, drain, waste and main fuel shut-off valves, as well as the location of the water main and main fuel shut-off valves. J. Inspect and determine if the water supply is public or private. K. Inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously. L. Inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in installation and identification of hot and cold faucets. M. Inspect and report as in need of repair mechanical drain-stops that are missing or do not operate if installed in sinks, lavatories and tubs. N. Inspect and report as in need of repair commodes that have cracks in the ceramic material, are improperly mounted on the floor, leak, or have tank components which do not operate. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Light pilot flames. B. Determine the size, temperature, age, life expectancy or adequacy of the water heater. C. Inspect interiors of flues or chimneys, water softening or filtering systems, well pumps or tanks, safety or shut-of valves, floor drains or sprinkler systems. D. Determine the exact flow rate, volume, pressure, temperature, or adequacy of the water supply. E. Determine the water quality or potability or the reliability of the water supply or source. F. Open closed plumbing access panels G. Inspect clothes washing machine connections. H. Operate any main, branch or fixture valve except fixture faucets and hose faucets attached to the building. I. Test shower pans, tub and shower surrounds or enclosures for leakage. J. Evaluate the compliance with local or state conservation or energy standards, or the proper design or sizing of any water, waste or venting components, fixtures or piping. K. Determine the effectiveness of anti-siphon, back-flow prevention or drain-stop devices. L. Determine whether there are sufficient clean-outs for effective cleaning of drains. M. Evaluate gas, liquid propane or oil storage tanks. N. Excavate or otherwise uncover the private sewage system or its components to determine size, adequacy or efficiency. O. Inspect water treatment systems or water filters. P. Inspect pressure pumps or bladder tanks.

5.0	MAIN WATER SHUT-OFF DEVICE (Describe location) Comments: Inspected The main water shutoff is in the corner to the right of the electrical panel in the basement.

5.1

HOT WATER SYSTEMS, CONTROLS, CHIMNEYS, FLUES AND VENTS Comments: Inspected The water heater was installed in October of 1998 according to the inspection hang tag and appears to be functioning properly. I examined the water heater using a Bacarach Monoxor II carbon monoxide tester. This is a high quality laboratory grade instrument that I use to detect carbon monoxide and measure whether a furnace or water heater has become a safety hazard. My readings show that there are no problems with the furnace or the water heater (see picture).

5.2

INTERIOR DRAIN, WASTE AND VENT SYSTEMS Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Repair or Replace 1. The pipes in picture 1 are located immediately underneath the upstairs bathroom. The iron pipe on the left side of the photo are very old and rusted and it is difficult to determine if they are in adequate condition since the rust and buildup is very high. Wire brush these pipes and clean them and then inspect them carefully to make sure all connections are sound. In addition, when you replace the bathroom above, consider replacing all of the PVC pipe to the right side of the photo. At minimum, check all fittings for leaks and take some time to carefully examine and determine this pipe is in good condition. 2. Picture 2 shows another view of the aged iron waste pipe.

5.3

INTERIOR WATER SUPPLY AND DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS AND FIXTURES Comments: Repair or Replace The metal wrapped PVC pipe shown in picture 1 is the drain from the kitchen sink on the floor above. The metal wrap was wet and is a handyman fix for a leaking pipe above or maybe a crack in the PVC drain pipe itself. When you replace the kitchen above, also consider replacing all of this PVC pipe. The pipe is not very long and at the right of the photo connects with the iron pipe waste system.

5.6

BATHROOM Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Comments: Repair or Replace There is only one bath in the house and upon examination, it doesn't appear to be well constructed. The shed roof above the bath area is wavy and unlevel and does not have a very good pitch (angle of run off) for asphalt shingles. The roof is poorly built and this shows in the way the interior ceiling of the bathroom has been put together. As in the other rooms, the floor is uneven and in general, the bathroom doesn't feel very solid. If you consider remodeling this room, you might want to replace all fixtures and strip the drywall to the studs and rework the new installation. This would also give you the opportunity to evaluate the old iron waste supply and make sure all new PVC fittings, etc. are sound. If done carefully so you don't over improve the bathroom and the kitchen, you should find that these two rooms give you more investment value for money spent than any other area of the house.

7. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The service line. B. The meter box. C. The main disconnect. D. And determine the service amperage. E. Panels, breakers and fuses. F. The grounding. G. The bonding. H. A representative sampling of switches, receptacles, light fixtures, and ground circuit interrupters. I. And report the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch circuit wiring if readily visible. J. And report on any GFCI-tested receptacles in which power is not present, polarity is incorrect, the receptacle is not grounded, is not secured to the wall, the cover is not in place, the ground fault circuit interrupter devices are not properly installed or do not operate properly, or evidence of arcing or excessive heat is present. K. The service entrance conductors and the condition of their sheathing. L. The ground fault circuit interrupters with a GFCI tester. M. And describe the amperage rating of the service. N. And report the absence of smoke detectors. O. Service entrance cables and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the integrity of the insulation, drip loop, or separation of conductors at weatherheads and clearances. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Insert any tool, probe or device into the main or sub-panels. B. Operate electrical systems that are shut down. C. Remove panel covers or dead front covers if not readily accessible. D. Operate over current protection devices. E. Operate non-accessible smoke detectors. F. Measure or determine the amperage or voltage of the main service if not visibly labeled. G. Inspect the alarm system and components. H. Inspect the ancillary wiring. I. Activate any electrical systems or branch circuits which are not energized. J. Operate overload devices. K. Inspect low voltage systems, electrical de-icing tapes, swimming pool wiring or any time-controlled devices. L. Verify the continuity of the connected service ground. M. Inspect private or emergency electrical supply sources, including but not limited to generators, windmills, photovoltaic solar collectors, or battery or electrical storage facility. N. Inspect spark or lightning arrestors. O. Conduct drop voltage calculations. P. Determine the accuracy of breaker labeling.

6.1	SERVICE AND GROUNDING EQUIPMENT, MAIN OVERCURRENT DEVICE, MAIN AND DISTRIBUTION PANELS Comments: Inspected The electrical panel appears to have a 100 amp service and all of the wiring in the house is romex. The outlets are old and from the sample testing appear to be wired correctly.

9. ATTIC - VENTILATION, INSULATION & STRUCTURE

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The insulation in unfinished spaces. B. The ventilation of attic spaces. C. Mechanical ventilation systems. D. And report on the general absence or lack of insulation. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Enter the attic or unfinished spaces that are not readily accessible or where entry could cause damage or pose a safety hazard to the inspector in his or her opinion. B. To move or touch insulation. C. To move or touch vapor retarders. D. Break or otherwise damage the surface finish or weather seal on or around access panels and covers. E. Identify the composition or the exact R-value of insulation material. F. Activate thermostatically operated fans. G. Determine the types of materials used in insulation/wrapping of pipes, ducts, jackets, boilers, and wiring.

10. DOORS, WINDOWS & INTERIORS

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall: A. Open and close a representative number of doors and windows. B. Inspect the walls, ceilings, steps, stairways, and railings. C. Inspect garage doors and garage door openers by operating first by remote (if available) and then by the installed automatic door control. D. And report as in need of repair any installed electronic sensors that are not operable or not installed at proper heights above the garage door. E. And report as in need of repair any door locks or side ropes that have not been removed or disabled when garage door opener is in use. F. And report as in need of repair any windows that are obviously fogged or display other evidence of broken seals. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect paint, wallpaper, window treatments or finish treatments. B. Inspect central vacuum systems. C. Inspect safety glazing in locations subject to human impact. D. Inspect security components. E. Evaluate the fastening of countertops, cabinets, sink tops and fixtures, or firewall compromises. F. Move furniture, stored items, or any coverings like carpets or rugs in order to inspect the concealed floor structure. G. Move drop ceiling tiles. H. Inspect or move any household appliances. I. Inspect or operate equipment housed in the garage except as otherwise noted. J. Verify or certify safe operation of any auto reverse or related safety function of a garage door. K. Operate or evaluate security bar release and opening mechanisms, whether interior or exterior, including compliance with local, state, or federal standards. L. Operate any system, appliance or component that requires the use of special keys, codes, combinations, or devices. M. Operate or evaluate self-cleaning oven cycles or signal lights. N. Determine leakage from microwave ovens. O. Operate or examine any sauna, steam-jenny, kiln, toaster, ice-maker, coffee-maker, can-opener, bread-warmer, blender, instant hot water dispenser, or other small, ancillary devices. P. Inspect elevators. Q. Inspect central vacuums. R. Inspect appliances. S. Inspect items not permanently installed. T. Examine or operate any above-ground, movable, freestanding, or otherwise non-permanently installed pool/spa or self-contained equipment. U. Come into contact with any pool or spa water in order to determine the system structure or components. V. Determine the adequacy of spa jet water force or bubble effect. W. Determine the structural integrity or leakage of a pool or spa.

8.0

CEILINGS Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Comments: Repair or Replace 1. All of the ceilings in the house are in adequate condition, yet are out of level as are the floors. Settling has occurred over the 100+ years the house has been standing and this is somewhat normal. All cracks and imperfections should be repaired and if brought back to good condition, the house overall would look much better. 2. The second floor ceilings need some work since there are visible cracks where the sprayed on textured ceiling was applied. Picutre 1 is in the large bedroom and is a crack where the ceiling and wall meet. Picture 2 shows additional ceiling detail in the main bedroom. Picutre 3 is in the small upstairs bedroom showing the crack at the perimeter of the ceiling. Apparently movement of the house has stressed these areas and they need repair.

8.1

WALLS Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. All of the walls in the house need some maintenance work. In particular, all of the door trim has been poorly installed. If you paid attention to filling the holes and cracks and adjusted trim where possible, the house would look much more stable. 2. The paneling directly over the front entry door is loose and is coming off the wall. See picture 1. 3. Picture 2 shows an electrical box upon which a blank cover has been installed. The area around the box is cut out and this should be repaired. This is located in the small upstairs bedroom. You should also check to determine what wires if any are in the box.

8.3	STEPS, STAIRWAYS, BALCONIES AND RAILINGS Comments: Repair or Replace The landing steps going up to the second floor need serious rework. The bottom step has a very short rise and the tread isn't solid. Consider restringing new stairs to reduce the trip hazard that is currently present.

8.5

DOORS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER) Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 Comments: Repair or Replace 1. The back entry door, shown in picture 1, isn't hung properly and is not plumb and shuts on its own when opened. The door needs some work and repair. 2. The front entry door, shown in picture 2, isn't hung properly and does not fit the opening. It is out of plumb and square and needs some work and repair. 3. All of the interior doors are poorly installed and need work and possible rehanging, hinging, etc. 4. Picture 3 shows the closet doors in the small upstairs bedroom. In general, all of the interior doors have been installed poorly and if you spend some time and attention reworking the doors and trim, you will end up with a much better looking and operating house. 5. Picture 4 shows the entry door to the upstairs small bedroom. This door has been rehinged and has been installed very poorly. It need repair and attention. 6. Picture 5 shows the closet at the back wall of the large bedroom. There is a small window above this door and one window across the room. The room could use more ventilation. There isn't much room to add more windows on this wall, but you should look into some method of increasing the ventilation. Because the ceiling are 2x4 and if there is insulation, it is minimal. This will cause the upper floor to become extremely hot and stuffy on a hot summer day and more than anything, ventilation will help out. The front small bedroom also only has one window and cross ventilation on the second floor is lacking. You should consider some way to add ventilation for both rooms since there is little protection from the minimal insulation in the ceilings. 7. Picture 6 shows the closet at the top of the second floor stairs. The door on this closet rubs against the floor and cannot shut because of a smoke detector installed on the top door trim. Consider reworking this door or removing it and changing the style of storage.

8.6

WINDOWS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER) Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Repair or Replace 1. The center room of the house next to the kitchen has two windows which have only storms installed. There is no operating window sash. Install new windows. See picture 1. 2. The front living room window is a fixed pane of glass and does not open. Consider adding a new window to gain ventilation. See picture 2.

SUMMARY

Ann Arbor Home Inspection http://www.annarborhomeinspection.com P.O. Box 7300 Ann Arbor, Michigan 48107 (734) 369-3003 richard@annarborhomeinspection.com

Client Sample Client 4

Home 1234 Street Name Ann Arbor, MI

This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component to maintain it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function, efficiency, or safety of the home.

This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report.

1. ROOF

1.2

SKYLIGHTS, CHIMNEYS AND ROOF PENETRATIONS Repair or Replace The outside chimney is missing some brick and could use some maintenance and attention. It appears stable, however, and new mortar and even a clear coat of waterproofing would help extend the life of the chimney.

1.3

ROOFING DRAINAGE SYSTEMS Repair or Replace 1. In pictures 1 through 6, you will see that all of the eavestrough downspouts are missing extensions to carry water away from the foundation. Because you have an old porous brick foundation, it is extremely important to add extensions to all downspouts. This might be causing the paint peeling on the furnace wall in the basement since there are two downspouts in that location plus a window well - all of which could be allowing water to come against the foundation wall. 2. Picture 7 is the back of the house eavestrough. It is missing an end cap.

2. EXTERIOR

2.0	WALL CLADDING FLASHING AND TRIM Repair or Replace 1. Dirt drive coming from sidewalk toward house has a deep depression and should be filled. Consider adding new gravel to both bring the level up correctly as well as to make the house look more attractive. See picture 1. 2. Area next to driveway along street also has a deep depression and should be filled. See picture 2. 3. Sidewalk in front of the tree next to the street has a trip hazard which could be fixed by adding more asphalt fill material. See picture 3. 4. Sidewalk coming from street toward front door has another trip hazard. Could fix temporarily with asphalt patch and ideally by mudjacking (having a company pump cement under the lowered portion to raise the slab so it is level). See picture 4. 5. Another trip hazard heading toward the porch from the street. This one is closest to the porch itself. See picture 5. 6. Picture 6 shows the exterior brick foundation on one wall of the house. All of the exterior bricks that are visible should be re-pointed (re-mortared) and because they are old and porous, it would be worth painting them with a clear coat of exterior waterproofing to prevent moisture absorptance.
2.1	DOORS (Exterior) Repair or Replace 1. The back entry door isn't hung properly and is not plumb and shuts on its own when opened. The door needs some work and repair. 2. The front entry door isn't hung properly and does not fit the opening. It is out of plumb and square and needs some work and repair.
2.3	DECKS, BALCONIES, STOOPS, STEPS, AREAWAYS, PORCHES AND APPLICABLE RAILINGS Repair or Replace The vinyl siding on the inside of the front porch wall right next to the entry door is coming off the wall. It needs to be repaired.

3. BASEMENT, FOUNDATION, CRAWLSPACE & STRUCTURE

3.0	FOUNDATIONS (Report signs of abnormal or harmful water penetration into the building or signs of abnormal or harmful condensation on building components.) Repair or Replace 1. This house is over 100 years old and we spent a considerable amount of time examining the basement, foundation and mechanical systems. It appears that the original foundation was built out of solid brick and over time, an interior concrete block wall was added in front of the brick wall to help hold the original wall from caving into the basement area. This concrete wall is laid on the concrete floor, but does not extend all the way vertically to the floor joists as does the original brick wall. Upon close examination, the only area where the block wall appears to have suffered from movement of the outer brick wall is one horizontal crack next to the electrical panel. The area behind the furnace appears to be suffering from paint peeling which is a sign of excessive moisture, but no moisture was observed at the time of the inspection. There was an indented area directly below the upstairs bathroom which still had one exposed full brick wall and even though the bricks were flaking and not in the best looking shape, the wall was dry and intact. In addition, the original coal bin still had the original brick wall and it was intact. Photo #1 shows the horizontal crack near the electrical panel. 2. Picture 2 shows a closer look at the exposed brick above the concrete block wall. It isn't possible to project what if any pressure will be applied on the concrete block inner walls from the brick foundation. In addition, it isn't possible with a visual inspection to determine the condition of the brick foundation walls below ground level using a visual examination. Visual evidence suggests that the house is being supported by these walls and the walls are intact and carrying the downward load of the house. Yet, over time, there could be deterioration of the walls that we can't see. If there had been to this time, we would probably see more evidence of pushing in of the concrete block walls. 3. The central portion of the house is supported by two beam systems which form the shape of a T. Picture 3 shows one leg of this system. 4. Picture 4 shows the other leg of the beam support system. Both beams appear to be carrying the span weight of the house well. 5. However, as you enter the basement from the stairwell, you will find the right side of the first beam has a post which is not attached. Remove this post (shown in picture 5) and the other 2x4 and 2x6 corner pieces. These small pieces are a handyman fix and aren't accomplishing what the beam should. Replace the old beam with a new steel screw jack. 6. Picture 6 shows a view of the corner area immediately underneath the upstairs bathroom. This is where there is one fully exposed brick wall. You can get a feel for the construction of the brick foundation walls by examining this one. This area needs cleaning. 7. Picture 7 shows a view of the original coal bin which still has the original brick walls and no inner concrete wall. Again, this will give you a better view of what the foundation looks like behind the concrete block inner walls. 8. Picture 8 shows a stained area where the inner wall meets the concrete floor immediately next to the area described in 6 above (under the main bath). It is difficult to tell what caused the discoloration. The area wasn't wet when examined and I suggest scrapping all of the loose paint from the inner concrete block walls and painting them with new paint. The walls are solid, but cosmetically look bad. 9. Picture 9 shows an area on the concrete floor which is discolored. The dark area wasn't wet and might be signs of oil spill. It was possible that the original coal burning furnace was converted to oil before going to a forced air gas system. This might be an oil spill from that era. There were two pipes coming from the outside of the house on the driveway side near the electrical panel that could have been the oil fill and vent pipes. I suggest that you use a degreaser cleaner and try to clean the concrete floor and ultimately paint it. If the basement was cleaned and painted and all handyman fixes corrected and removed, the entire area would look much better.
3.1	FLOORS (Structural) Repair or Replace 1. When you enter the basement from the stairs, the floor immediately above the area at the base of the stairs is in poor condition. The entire floor extending from the base of the stairs to the T beam post support is questionable. Plywood underlayment has been placed on top of the original floor boards. Where you see the arrows in picture 1 and 2, you will notice the original floor boards are hanging loose and are unsupported by a floor joist. I suggest that you build up the existing floor joist to support the edges of these floor boards. In addition, there is a temporary steel jack attached to two sandwiched 2x4s approximately 5 feet long being used to support these original floor boards. By adding the extension to the original floor joist, you will be able to remove this floor jack. In addition, if you consider replacing the underlayment upstairs as part of your remodeling, you should be able to end up with a better floor system. 2. In addition, it appears that the underside of these original floor boards were charred and painted over. This suggests that there may have been a fire at one time in the basement area. Another good reason to consider replacing the underlayment and floor boards when remodeling above. 3. In general, all of the floors in the house lean and slope considerably and are far from level. Obviously there has been considerable settling of the house over the years and the floors illustrate this more than anything else. The only floor that needs maintenance attention is the underlayment area which is part of the main bath, kitchen and back bedroom floor system. This is mentioned in the paragraph above.
3.2	WALLS (Structural) Repair or Replace See the comments in Questions 3.0 above for information about the walls.
3.3	COLUMNS OR PIERS Repair or Replace See the comments in Questions 3.0 above for information about the support post that needs replacing.
3.4	CEILINGS (structural) Repair or Replace All of the ceiling in the house are aged and out of plumb or square. It is part of the character of an old house and after many years of settling and numerous handyman repairs, the fit and finish of the house has suffered. If you repaired all holes, cracks, and poorly joined woodwork, the house would look much better. Structurally, it doesn't appear that anything is coming apart or is serious enough to require reworking.

6. PLUMBING SYSTEM

5.2	INTERIOR DRAIN, WASTE AND VENT SYSTEMS Repair or Replace 1. The pipes in picture 1 are located immediately underneath the upstairs bathroom. The iron pipe on the left side of the photo are very old and rusted and it is difficult to determine if they are in adequate condition since the rust and buildup is very high. Wire brush these pipes and clean them and then inspect them carefully to make sure all connections are sound. In addition, when you replace the bathroom above, consider replacing all of the PVC pipe to the right side of the photo. At minimum, check all fittings for leaks and take some time to carefully examine and determine this pipe is in good condition. 2. Picture 2 shows another view of the aged iron waste pipe.
5.3	INTERIOR WATER SUPPLY AND DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS AND FIXTURES Repair or Replace The metal wrapped PVC pipe shown in picture 1 is the drain from the kitchen sink on the floor above. The metal wrap was wet and is a handyman fix for a leaking pipe above or maybe a crack in the PVC drain pipe itself. When you replace the kitchen above, also consider replacing all of this PVC pipe. The pipe is not very long and at the right of the photo connects with the iron pipe waste system.
5.6	BATHROOM Repair or Replace There is only one bath in the house and upon examination, it doesn't appear to be well constructed. The shed roof above the bath area is wavy and unlevel and does not have a very good pitch (angle of run off) for asphalt shingles. The roof is poorly built and this shows in the way the interior ceiling of the bathroom has been put together. As in the other rooms, the floor is uneven and in general, the bathroom doesn't feel very solid. If you consider remodeling this room, you might want to replace all fixtures and strip the drywall to the studs and rework the new installation. This would also give you the opportunity to evaluate the old iron waste supply and make sure all new PVC fittings, etc. are sound. If done carefully so you don't over improve the bathroom and the kitchen, you should find that these two rooms give you more investment value for money spent than any other area of the house.

10. DOORS, WINDOWS & INTERIORS

8.0	CEILINGS Repair or Replace 1. All of the ceilings in the house are in adequate condition, yet are out of level as are the floors. Settling has occurred over the 100+ years the house has been standing and this is somewhat normal. All cracks and imperfections should be repaired and if brought back to good condition, the house overall would look much better. 2. The second floor ceilings need some work since there are visible cracks where the sprayed on textured ceiling was applied. Picutre 1 is in the large bedroom and is a crack where the ceiling and wall meet. Picture 2 shows additional ceiling detail in the main bedroom. Picutre 3 is in the small upstairs bedroom showing the crack at the perimeter of the ceiling. Apparently movement of the house has stressed these areas and they need repair.
8.1	WALLS Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. All of the walls in the house need some maintenance work. In particular, all of the door trim has been poorly installed. If you paid attention to filling the holes and cracks and adjusted trim where possible, the house would look much more stable. 2. The paneling directly over the front entry door is loose and is coming off the wall. See picture 1. 3. Picture 2 shows an electrical box upon which a blank cover has been installed. The area around the box is cut out and this should be repaired. This is located in the small upstairs bedroom. You should also check to determine what wires if any are in the box.
8.2	FLOORS Repair or Replace 1. In general, all of the floors in the house lean and slope considerably and are far from level. Obviously there has been considerable settling of the house over the years and the floors illustrate this more than anything else. The only floor that needs maintenance attention is the underlayment area which is part of the main bath, kitchen and back bedroom floor system. We discussed the possibility of remodeling the kitchen and bathroom. If you do, consider repairing the floors at that time. The adjacent back bedroom floor is seriously out of level and this overlaps the area that was mentioned in the foundation part of this report where the original floorboards are not being supported well. 2. You won't be able to completely correct the floors in this house since there is enough settling in all directions and considerable variance from one room to the other. However, the floors at the back part of the house appear to be the worst and this is the area where you mentioned you would like to do remodeling. If so, seriously consider working on the floors at that time.
8.3	STEPS, STAIRWAYS, BALCONIES AND RAILINGS Repair or Replace The landing steps going up to the second floor need serious rework. The bottom step has a very short rise and the tread isn't solid. Consider restringing new stairs to reduce the trip hazard that is currently present.
8.5	DOORS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER) Repair or Replace 1. The back entry door, shown in picture 1, isn't hung properly and is not plumb and shuts on its own when opened. The door needs some work and repair. 2. The front entry door, shown in picture 2, isn't hung properly and does not fit the opening. It is out of plumb and square and needs some work and repair. 3. All of the interior doors are poorly installed and need work and possible rehanging, hinging, etc. 4. Picture 3 shows the closet doors in the small upstairs bedroom. In general, all of the interior doors have been installed poorly and if you spend some time and attention reworking the doors and trim, you will end up with a much better looking and operating house. 5. Picture 4 shows the entry door to the upstairs small bedroom. This door has been rehinged and has been installed very poorly. It need repair and attention. 6. Picture 5 shows the closet at the back wall of the large bedroom. There is a small window above this door and one window across the room. The room could use more ventilation. There isn't much room to add more windows on this wall, but you should look into some method of increasing the ventilation. Because the ceiling are 2x4 and if there is insulation, it is minimal. This will cause the upper floor to become extremely hot and stuffy on a hot summer day and more than anything, ventilation will help out. The front small bedroom also only has one window and cross ventilation on the second floor is lacking. You should consider some way to add ventilation for both rooms since there is little protection from the minimal insulation in the ceilings. 7. Picture 6 shows the closet at the top of the second floor stairs. The door on this closet rubs against the floor and cannot shut because of a smoke detector installed on the top door trim. Consider reworking this door or removing it and changing the style of storage.
8.6	WINDOWS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER) Repair or Replace 1. The center room of the house next to the kitchen has two windows which have only storms installed. There is no operating window sash. Install new windows. See picture 1. 2. The front living room window is a fixed pane of glass and does not open. Consider adding a new window to gain ventilation. See picture 2.

DISCLOSURE STATEMENT
Ann Arbor Home Inspection

1. Definitions & Scope of the Home Inspection

This home inspection is a non-invasive visual examination of a residential dwelling, performed for a fee, which is designed to identify observed material defects within specific components of said dwelling. Components may include any combination of mechanical, structural, electrical, plumbing, or other essential systems or portions of the home, as identified and agreed to by the Client and Inspector, prior to or during the inspection process.

This home inspection is intended to assist in evaluation of the overall condition of the dwelling. The inspection is based on observation of the visible and apparent condition of the structure and its components on the date of the inspection and not the determination of future conditions.

A home inspection will not reveal every problem that exists or ever could exist, but only those material defects that are reasonably apparent by visual inspection on the day of the inspection.

A material defect is a problem with a residential real property or any portion of it that would have a significant adverse impact on the value of the property or that involves an unreasonable risk to people on the property. The fact that a structural element, system or subsystem is near, at or beyond the end of the normal useful life of such a structural element, system or subsystem is not by itself a material defect.

This inspection report shall describe and identify in written format the inspected systems, structures, and components of the dwelling and shall identify material defects observed. Inspection reports may contain recommendations regarding conditions reported or recommendations for correction, monitoring or further evaluation by professionals.

2. Detailed description of the major systems and accessories to be inspected

Each section of this report contains a Standards of Practice paragraph which immediately follows the section header that describes the major systems and accessories being inspected as well as the items not required to be inspected. These paragraphs have been copied directly from the Standards of Practice of the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI) located at http://www.nachi.org/sop.htm. The inspector follows these Standards of Practice to perform every home inspection. Comments, observations, digital photos, and any other information that is provided above and beyond the language of the NACHI Standards of Practice are provided as a curtesy to client(s) and are for information purposes only and are not considered to be part of the contracted for home inspection.

3. Limitations & Exceptions:

I. An inspection is not technically exhaustive.
II. An inspection will not identify concealed or latent defects.
III. An inspection will not deal with aesthetic concerns or what could be deemed matters of taste, cosmetic, etc.
IV. An inspection will not determine the suitability of the property for any use.
V. An inspection does not determine the market value of the property or its marketability.
VI. An inspection does not determine the advisability or inadvisability of the purchase of the inspected property.
VII. An inspection does not determine the life expectancy of the property or any components or systems therein.
VIII. An inspection does not include items not permanently installed.
IX. These Standards of Practice apply only to homes with four or fewer dwelling units.

4. Exclusions:

I. The inspector is not required to determine:

A. Property boundary lines or encroachments.
B. The condition of any component or system that is not readily accessible.
C. The service life expectancy of any component or system.
D. The size, capacity, BTU, performance, or efficiency of any component or system.
E. The cause or reason of any condition.
F. The cause for the need of repair or replacement of any system or component.
G. Future conditions.
H. The compliance with codes or regulations.
I. The presence of evidence of rodents, animals or insects.
J. The presence of mold, mildew or fungus.
K. The presence of air-borne hazards.
L. The presence of birds.
M. The presence of other flora or fauna.
N. The air quality.
O. The existence of asbestos.
P. The existence of environmental hazards.
Q. The existence of electro-magnetic fields.
R. The presence of hazardous materials including, but not limited to, the presence of lead in paint.
S. Any hazardous waste conditions.
T. Any manufacturer recalls or conformance with manufacturer installation or any information included in the consumer protection bulletin.
U. Operating costs of systems.
V. Replacement or repair cost estimates.
W. The acoustical properties of any systems.
X. Estimates of how much it will cost to run any given system.

II. The inspector is not required to operate:

A. Any system that is shut down or not operable.
B. Any system that does not function properly.
C. Or evaluate low voltage electrical systems such as, but not limited to: 1. Phone lines; 2. Cable lines; 3. Antennae; 4. Lights; and 5. Remote controls.
D. Any system that does not turn on with the use of normal operating controls.
E. Any shut off valve.
F. Any electrical disconnect or over current protection devices.
G. Any alarm systems.
H. Moisture meters, gas detectors or similar equipment.

III. The inspector is not required to:

A. Move any personal items or other obstructions, such as, but not limited to: 1. Throw rugs; 2. Furniture; 3. Floor or wall coverings; 4. Ceiling tiles; 5. Window coverings; 6. Equipment; 7. Plants; 8. Ice; 9. Debris; 10. Snow; 11. Water; 12. Dirt; 13. Foliage; 14. Pets
B. Dismantle, open, or uncover any system or component.
C. Enter or access any area which may, in the opinion of the inspector, to be unsafe or risk personal safety.
D. Enter crawlspaces or other areas that are unsafe or not readily accessible.
E. Inspect underground items such as, but not limited to, underground storage tanks or other indications of their presence, whether abandoned or actively used.
F. Do anything which, in the inspector's opinion, is likely to be unsafe or dangerous to the inspector or others or damage property, such as, but not limited to, walking on roof surfaces, climbing ladders, entering attic spaces or negotiating with dogs.
G. Inspect decorative items.
H. Inspect common elements or areas in multi-unit housing.
I. Inspect intercoms, speaker systems, radio-controlled, security devices or lawn irrigation systems.
J. Offer guarantees or warranties.
K. Offer or perform any engineering services.
L. Offer or perform any trade or professional service other than home inspection.
M. Research the history of the property, report on its potential for alteration, modification, extendibility, or its suitability for a specific or proposed use for occupancy.
N. Determine the age of construction or installation of any system structure, or component of a building, or differentiate between original construction or subsequent additions, improvements, renovations or replacements thereto.
O. Determine the insurability of a property.

IV. The inspector shall not repair or offer to repair a residence which was the subject of home
inspection services provided by the home inspector unless the repair is pursuant to a home
warranty provided by the home inspector.

5. For Benefit of Client(s) Only

This report is provided for the specific benefit of the client(s), and secondary readers of this information should hire a licensed inspector to perform an inspection to meet their specific needs and to obtain any information concerning the inspected property.