Ann Arbor Home Inspection P.O. Box 7300 Ann Arbor, Michigan 48107 (734) 369-3003

Client Sample Client 3 (1,000 square foot 1960's starter home)

Home 1234 Street Name Ann Arbor, MI

Real Estate Agent None

Inspection Date  Friday, April 30, 2004 Weather: Cloudy Report ID: 0430041

Temperature: Over 65 Inspected By  Richard H. Becker

1. ROOF

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect from ground level or eaves: A. The roof covering. B. The gutters. C. The downspouts. D. The vents, flashings, skylights, chimney and other roof penetrations. E. The general structure of the roof from the readily accessible panels, doors or stairs. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Walk on any roof surface. B. Predict the service life expectancy. C. Inspect underground downspout diverter drainage pipes. D. Remove snow, ice, debris or other conditions that prohibit the observation of the roof surfaces. E. Inspect antennae, lightning arresters, or similar attachments.

1.3	ROOFING DRAINAGE SYSTEMS Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The gutters need to be cleaned on the front and back of the house to provide better drainage.

2. EXTERIOR

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The flashing and trim. B. All exterior doors, decks, stoops, steps, stairs, porches, railings, eaves, soffits, fascias, grading, and walkways. C. And report as in need of repair any spacings between intermediate balusters, spindles, or rails for steps, stairways, balconies, and railings that permit the passage of an object greater than four inches in diameter. D. The vegetation, surface drainage and retaining walls when these are likely to adversely affect the building. E. And describe the exterior wall covering. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect or operate screens, storm windows, shutters, awnings, fences, outbuildings, or exterior accent lighting. B. Inspect items, including window and door flashings, which are not visible or readily accessible from the ground. C. Inspect geological, geotechnical, or hydrological conditions. D. Inspect recreational facilities. E. Inspect seawalls, break-walls and docks. F. Inspect erosion control and earth stabilization measures. G. Inspect for safety type glass. H. Inspect underground utilities. I. Inspect underground items. J. Inspect wells or springs. K. Inspect solar systems. L. Inspect swimming pools or spas. M. Inspect septic systems or cesspools. N. Inspect playground equipment. O. Inspect sprinkler systems. P. Inspect drain fields or drywells. Q. Determine the integrity of the thermal window seals or damaged glass.

2.0

WALL CLADDING FLASHING AND TRIM Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace Picture 1 shows the siding on the garage which needs scraping, sanding, priming and painting. The siding on the garage is wood bevel siding which is different from the siding on the house which is a wood shingle. Picture 2 shows a crack in one of the shingles on the South side of the house. The South side shingles are in the greatest need of some maintenance. We covered, during the inspection, how to prepare and work with these shingles to get them back into good condition. The key is to close the large gaps through a combination of methods. Use a caulk gun to apply exterior rated construction cement behind all shingles that are curled and pulling off the house. This in combination with small exterior (galvanized) finish nails that are nailed in using smaller diameter drilled pilot holes will help to set the loose shingles back to the house. Where the gaps are large and cracks still need filling, then use Bondo which is an automotive body repair product to fill larger holes or cracks. After all of the repairs have been made, you should at least touch up the repaired areas with the same color paint as the current paint. If you decide to repaint the entire house, you could do that at another time. The repair and fixing of larger cracks is the most important thing to focus on. Painting of the entire house could be left for next year. Also, painting of the entire garage could be approached in the same way. Repair needed areas this year, and fully paint later. Picture 3 shows the siding on the back side of the house which still needs some maintenance, but not as extensive as the South side wall.

2.1

DOORS (Exterior) Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The brick moulding to the side of the back entry door is bare wood and needs to be sanded, primed and painted. It appears that the resident dog has scratched the moulding and it can be easily repaired (see picture 1). The bottom of the brick moulding on the garage side entry door has suffered dry rot and the moulding on the left bottom should be scraped and you could use Bondo as a means of repair for now. The ideal repair is to replace all of the moulding (top and sides), but with the Bondo, you might find and easy, inexpensive way to currently fix the moulding.

2.3

DECKS, BALCONIES, STOOPS, STEPS, AREAWAYS, PORCHES AND APPLICABLE RAILINGS Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The concrete patio in the backyard is cracked yet is still serviceable. It would be nice to add a deck over the entire patio area as well as to extend the deck in front of the sliding door in the dining room area. If you installed a wolmanized deck with proper railing, you would probably find your cost fully recoverable when you sell this house in the future. Meanwhile, you would gain the enjoyment of having a really nice backyard living space. Picture 1 shows the view of the main deck area and picture 2 shows the smaller deck extension that would give you access to the dining room sliding door.

2.4

VEGETATION, GRADING, DRAINAGE, DRIVEWAYS, PATIOS, WALKWAYS AND RETAINING WALLS (With respect to their effect on the condition of the building) Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Comments: Inspected The front sidewalk has several trip hazards due to the tree roots elevating the concrete slabs (see pictures 1,2 and 3). Consider negotiating with the current owner to see if they will pay for all or part of the mudjacking expense to level the sidewalk. This is a public area and a definite trip hazard and liability. Consequently it is a deficiency of the house and not a repair item. The driveway could use a little leveling as well as the garage floor. These items are maintenance items since they are on private property and more than likely should be fixed at your expense. If the repair company was already on site to repair the sidewalk, they would probably give you a lower cost to repair the driveway and garage. Call a contractor to get a quote on this and present it in your final negotiation with the seller.

2.5

EAVES, SOFFITS AND FASCIAS Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace Picture 1 shows the fascia board and eave on the side of the garage. The trim on the house needs to be scraped, sanded, primed and painted. The garage in particular needs some work this summer to seal the wood from moisture and insect damage. Picture 2 shows the driveway side of the house fascia board which also needs paint maintenance. Picture 3 shows the South side of the house fascia board which also needs paint maintenance.

2.7	GARAGE FLOOR Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The garage floor has one substantial crack where the floor has separated and you now have a trip hazard. It might be possible to use the concrete mudjacking injection method to better level the interior floor.

3. BASEMENT, FOUNDATION, CRAWLSPACE & STRUCTURE

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The basement. B. The foundation C. The crawlspace. D. The visible structural components. E. Any present conditions or indications of active water penetration by probing a representative sampling of structural components where deterioration is believed to be present or where clear indications of deterioration are present. F. And report any general indications of foundation movement that are observed, such as but not limited to sheetrock cracks, brick cracks, out-of-square door frames or floor slopes. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Enter any crawlspaces that are not readily accessible or where entry could cause damage or pose a hazard to the inspector in his or her opinion. B. Move stored items or debris. C. Operate sump pumps with inaccessible floats. D. Identify size, spacing, span, location or adequacy of foundation bolting, bracing, joists or support systems. E. Provide any engineering or architectural service. F. Report on the adequacy of any structural system or component.

4. HEATING SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The heating system and describe the energy source and heating method using normal operating controls. B. And report as in need of repair electric furnaces which do not operate. C. And report if inspector deemed the furnace inaccessible. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect or evaluate interiors of flues or chimneys, fire chambers, the heat exchanger, the humidifier or dehumidifier, the electronic air filter, solar heating systems or fuel tanks. B. Inspect underground fuel tanks. C. Determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the heating system. D. Light pilot flames. E. Activate heating, heat pump systems, or other heating systems when ambient temperatures or other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. F. Operate electronic thermostats. G. Evaluate fuel quality.

5. COOLING SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The central cooling equipment using normal operating controls.II. The inspector is not required to: A. Determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the cooling system. B. Inspect window units, through-wall units, or electronic air filters. C. Operate equipment or systems if exterior temperature is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit or when other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. D. Inspect or determine thermostat calibration, heat anticipation or automatic setbacks or clocks. E. Examine electrical current, coolant fluids or gasses, or coolant leakage.

6. PLUMBING SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall: A. Inspect the main water shut off valve. B. Inspect the water heating system. C. Flush toilets. D. Run water in sinks, tubs, and showers. E. Inspect the interior water supply including all fixtures and faucets. F. Inspect the drain, waste and vent systems, including all fixtures. G. Describe any visible fuel storage systems. H. Inspect the drainage sump pumps testing sumps with accessible floats. I. Inspect and describe the water supply, drain, waste and main fuel shut-off valves, as well as the location of the water main and main fuel shut-off valves. J. Inspect and determine if the water supply is public or private. K. Inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously. L. Inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in installation and identification of hot and cold faucets. M. Inspect and report as in need of repair mechanical drain-stops that are missing or do not operate if installed in sinks, lavatories and tubs. N. Inspect and report as in need of repair commodes that have cracks in the ceramic material, are improperly mounted on the floor, leak, or have tank components which do not operate. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Light pilot flames. B. Determine the size, temperature, age, life expectancy or adequacy of the water heater. C. Inspect interiors of flues or chimneys, water softening or filtering systems, well pumps or tanks, safety or shut-of valves, floor drains or sprinkler systems. D. Determine the exact flow rate, volume, pressure, temperature, or adequacy of the water supply. E. Determine the water quality or potability or the reliability of the water supply or source. F. Open closed plumbing access panels G. Inspect clothes washing machine connections. H. Operate any main, branch or fixture valve except fixture faucets and hose faucets attached to the building. I. Test shower pans, tub and shower surrounds or enclosures for leakage. J. Evaluate the compliance with local or state conservation or energy standards, or the proper design or sizing of any water, waste or venting components, fixtures or piping. K. Determine the effectiveness of anti-siphon, back-flow prevention or drain-stop devices. L. Determine whether there are sufficient clean-outs for effective cleaning of drains. M. Evaluate gas, liquid propane or oil storage tanks. N. Excavate or otherwise uncover the private sewage system or its components to determine size, adequacy or efficiency. O. Inspect water treatment systems or water filters. P. Inspect pressure pumps or bladder tanks.

6.1

HOT WATER SYSTEMS, CONTROLS, CHIMNEYS, FLUES AND VENTS Comments: Inspected I examined the water heater using a Bacarach Monoxor II carbon monoxide tester. This is a high quality laboratory grade instrument that I use to detect carbon monoxide and measure whether a furnace or water heater has become a safety hazard. My readings show that there are no problems with the furnace or the water heater (see picture).

7. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The service line. B. The meter box. C. The main disconnect. D. And determine the service amperage. E. Panels, breakers and fuses. F. The grounding. G. The bonding. H. A representative sampling of switches, receptacles, light fixtures, and ground circuit interrupters. I. And report the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch circuit wiring if readily visible. J. And report on any GFCI-tested receptacles in which power is not present, polarity is incorrect, the receptacle is not grounded, is not secured to the wall, the cover is not in place, the ground fault circuit interrupter devices are not properly installed or do not operate properly, or evidence of arcing or excessive heat is present. K. The service entrance conductors and the condition of their sheathing. L. The ground fault circuit interrupters with a GFCI tester. M. And describe the amperage rating of the service. N. And report the absence of smoke detectors. O. Service entrance cables and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the integrity of the insulation, drip loop, or separation of conductors at weatherheads and clearances. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Insert any tool, probe or device into the main or sub-panels. B. Operate electrical systems that are shut down. C. Remove panel covers or dead front covers if not readily accessible. D. Operate over current protection devices. E. Operate non-accessible smoke detectors. F. Measure or determine the amperage or voltage of the main service if not visibly labeled. G. Inspect the alarm system and components. H. Inspect the ancillary wiring. I. Activate any electrical systems or branch circuits which are not energized. J. Operate overload devices. K. Inspect low voltage systems, electrical de-icing tapes, swimming pool wiring or any time-controlled devices. L. Verify the continuity of the connected service ground. M. Inspect private or emergency electrical supply sources, including but not limited to generators, windmills, photovoltaic solar collectors, or battery or electrical storage facility. N. Inspect spark or lightning arrestors. O. Conduct drop voltage calculations. P. Determine the accuracy of breaker labeling.

7.3

BRANCH CIRCUIT CONDUCTORS, OVERCURRENT DEVICES AND COMPATIBILITY OF THEIR AMPERAGE AND VOLTAGE Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The electrical panel looks good except for one of the circuit breakers on the right side which has two circuit wires attached. This is called "double tapping" and will not pass electrical code and it is my responsibility to tell you to have it corrected by a licensed electrician. This is an item that you should have the home owner correct as part of your final negotiation. It is a small item and easy to accomplish but important for long term safety.

7.4

CONNECTED DEVICES AND FIXTURES (Observed from a representative number operation of ceiling fans, lighting fixtures, switches and receptacles located inside the house, garage, and on the dwelling's exterior walls) Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace During our inspection, David mentioned not liking the overhead fixture by the front door and in the hallway (see pictures 1 and 2). Both locations could use better selected fixtures for the function. A more organic look would be good by the front door so that fixture didn't need to maintain symmetry on the angled ceiling. In the hallway, a small pendant style fixture could be used that hangs on a wire from a canopy. If you added a similar light over the kitchen counter as I recommended, you could match both of these fixtures and add some color and style to the lighting. I will be glad to provide some suggestions and sources if you like. Picture 3 shows the location on the ceiling where you could hang a pendant light fixture that matches a proposed new one in the hallway.

8. FIREPLACE(S)

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The fireplace, and open and close the damper door if readily accessible and operable. B. Hearth extensions and other permanently installed components. C. And report as in need of repair deficiencies in the lintel, hearth and material surrounding the fireplace, including clearance from combustible materials II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect the vent system. B. Inspect the interior of the chimney or flue, fire doors or screens, seals or mantels. C. Determine the need for a chimney sweep. D. Operate gas fireplace inserts. E. Light pilot flames. F. Determine the appropriateness of such installation. G. Inspect automatic fuel feed devices. H. Inspect combustion make up devices. I. Inspect heat distribution assists whether gravity controlled or fan assisted. J. Ignite or extinguish fires. K. Determine draft characteristics. L. Move fireplace inserts, stoves, or firebox contents. M. Determine adequacy of draft, perform a smoke test or dismantle or remove any component.

9. ATTIC - VENTILATION, INSULATION & STRUCTURE

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The insulation in unfinished spaces. B. The ventilation of attic spaces. C. Mechanical ventilation systems. D. And report on the general absence or lack of insulation. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Enter the attic or unfinished spaces that are not readily accessible or where entry could cause damage or pose a safety hazard to the inspector in his or her opinion. B. To move or touch insulation. C. To move or touch vapor retarders. D. Break or otherwise damage the surface finish or weather seal on or around access panels and covers. E. Identify the composition or the exact R-value of insulation material. F. Activate thermostatically operated fans. G. Determine the types of materials used in insulation/wrapping of pipes, ducts, jackets, boilers, and wiring.

10. DOORS, WINDOWS & INTERIORS

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall: A. Open and close a representative number of doors and windows. B. Inspect the walls, ceilings, steps, stairways, and railings. C. Inspect garage doors and garage door openers by operating first by remote (if available) and then by the installed automatic door control. D. And report as in need of repair any installed electronic sensors that are not operable or not installed at proper heights above the garage door. E. And report as in need of repair any door locks or side ropes that have not been removed or disabled when garage door opener is in use. F. And report as in need of repair any windows that are obviously fogged or display other evidence of broken seals. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect paint, wallpaper, window treatments or finish treatments. B. Inspect central vacuum systems. C. Inspect safety glazing in locations subject to human impact. D. Inspect security components. E. Evaluate the fastening of countertops, cabinets, sink tops and fixtures, or firewall compromises. F. Move furniture, stored items, or any coverings like carpets or rugs in order to inspect the concealed floor structure. G. Move drop ceiling tiles. H. Inspect or move any household appliances. I. Inspect or operate equipment housed in the garage except as otherwise noted. J. Verify or certify safe operation of any auto reverse or related safety function of a garage door. K. Operate or evaluate security bar release and opening mechanisms, whether interior or exterior, including compliance with local, state, or federal standards. L. Operate any system, appliance or component that requires the use of special keys, codes, combinations, or devices. M. Operate or evaluate self-cleaning oven cycles or signal lights. N. Determine leakage from microwave ovens. O. Operate or examine any sauna, steam-jenny, kiln, toaster, ice-maker, coffee-maker, can-opener, bread-warmer, blender, instant hot water dispenser, or other small, ancillary devices. P. Inspect elevators. Q. Inspect central vacuums. R. Inspect appliances. S. Inspect items not permanently installed. T. Examine or operate any above-ground, movable, freestanding, or otherwise non-permanently installed pool/spa or self-contained equipment. U. Come into contact with any pool or spa water in order to determine the system structure or components. V. Determine the adequacy of spa jet water force or bubble effect. W. Determine the structural integrity or leakage of a pool or spa.

10.0

CEILINGS Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Inspected The ceilings in the house are in good condition. The only exceptions are a settling crack in the upstairs hallway (see photo 1) and the basement living space tile ceiling (see photo 2). The crack in the ceiling upstairs is more a cosmetic concern and appears to be only from settling of the house over time and not water damage. The basement ceiling on the other hand does show that there was water damage at one time and when stapled 12 inch square tongue and groove tiles become damaged, they are almost impossible to replace and make look good and instead need to be replaced. Even though the ceiling looks bad, it appears that the plumbing in the kitchen has been replaced and there is no further leakage problem. Consider replacing the tile ceiling on both sides of the center air duct area (which can be left as is) with a removable metal track two foot by two foot metal thin line grid. Then consider using two foot square white vinyl fiberglass ceiling tiles. These tiles are inexpensive but more important, allow you to place the metal track right on the floor joists above without losing head space because they are flexible and can be pushed into place instead of needing room above the metal grid to be positioned. This is a project which would make the house look better and probably recover all of your cost upon resale. In addition, if you paint all of the walls white, the dark basement area will be more light and inviting. The basement office is finished this way and will give you an excellent comparison as to how a simple improvement like this can make the space look really good.

10.4

COUNTERS AND A REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER OF CABINETS Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The kitchen is very limited in cabinet storage. There is little room to expand the kitchen and a possible way to gain better storage is to replace the current portable dishwasher with a permanent one that would provide pull out drawers instead of the typical hinged drop door. The dishwasher that I'm recommending is made by Fisher & Paykel and can be purchased for around $1,200. I'm recommending that you replace the base cabinet to the left of the sink with a new unit that would allow for installing this dishwasher in the end opposite the refrigerator (see the arrow in picture 1 for the location). There would be room to pull out both drawers if you use the Fisher & Paykel unit but not if you used a traditional drop door dishwasher. I've included an image of this dishwasher in picture 2 above. The dishwasher front comes in stainless, white and black. Use the following web page link to gain more information about this beautiful piece of equipment: http://www.distinctiveappliance.com/catalog/customer/product.php?productid=16167&cat=271&page=1 In addition, I'm recommending that you replace the sink base cabinet and purchase a new sink and faucet. By renewing this counter and cabinetry, you will gain an easier to use kitchen and full use of your dishwasher. It would be nice to have a deeper sink and one which has a larger washing basin for large pans and pots. The current sink has two small bowels which could be replaced with a new sink that has a larger bowel and a small one or just one large bowel. In addition, you could then add a garbage disposal which the current sink doesn't have. Then, you can store the portable dishwasher (for future resale if you take the Fisher & Paykel to your next home) and install a new base cabinet where the current portable dishwasher is being stored. This would also require a new countertop. To add additional storage for glasses, dishes, etc. you could then purchase and install a 3 foot wide, 12 inch deep, tall wall cabinet that would fit tight against the wall in the dining area (see picture 3). This would provide considerable storage that you don't currently have and really could use. By being 12 inches deep, the cabinet would not stick out as far as the current table. It also wouldn't extend above the open cutout in the wall at the top. A three foot cabinet would still provide several inches of wall to the left and right of the current wall and the two light switches could be moved from the wall to the cabinet sides. There still needs to be some consideration as to where you would place a microwave if you desire one. Other than that, these few improvements would provide a really nice working kitchen within your very limited space. The current vinyl floor is damaged and when replacing cabinetry, you could easily replace the flooring material. The floor measures approximately nine foot by ten foot three inches or is approximately 90 square feet of flooring or 10 square yards. These are just some preliminary ideas and I would be glad to discuss this in more detail at a later time. The kitchen currently is serviceable and the old style cabinets do work. So the changes are definitely an optional home improvement but would enhance your property value for later resale and current enjoyment.

10.5

DOORS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER) Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace All of the doors in the house are hung square and plumb. You could replace the bifold closet door track in hardware for the door in the hallway to make it work more smoothly (see picture 1), however, the door does work currently and the replacement would be to improve operation not because the door needs current repair. If you decided to replace this bifold door, you could use a mirrored door and visually expand the space. But that would be an optional home improvement. The closet doors in two of the bedrooms have been removed (see pictures 2 and 3). If you would like to add new doors, you could use mirrored bifold or sliding door units to visually make each room look bigger. If you selected a white painted frame Stanley door (check Lowes and Home Depot) you would be investing the lowest amount of money for a good serviceable door. In addition, the installation is straightforward and there is no painting involved which saves time.

11. BUILT-IN KITCHEN APPLIANCES

Not a part of the National Association of Home Inspectors Standards of Practice and performed as a curtesy for client(s): I. The home inspector may observe and operate the basic functions of the following kitchen appliances: Permanently installed dishwasher, through its normal cycle; Range, cook top, and permanently installed oven; Trash compactor; Garbage disposal; Ventilation equipment or range hood; and Permanently installed microwave oven. The home inspector is not required to observe: Clocks, timers, self-cleaning oven function, or thermostats for calibration or automatic operation; Non built-in appliances; or Refrigeration units. The home inspector is not required to operate: Appliances in use; or Any appliance that is shut down or otherwise inoperable.

12. COMPLIMENTARY PHOTO VIEWS

Not a part of the National Association of Home Inspectors Standards of Practice and performed as a curtesy for client(s).

12.0	Living Room Comments: Inspected Living room view.

12.1	Kitchen Comments: Inspected Kitchen view.

12.2	Dining Area Comments: Inspected Dining area view.

12.3	Master Bedroom Comments: Inspected Master bedroom view.

12.4	Bedroom 2 Comments: Inspected Bedroom 2 view

12.5	Bedroom 3 Comments: Inspected Bedroom 3 view.

12.6	Full Bath Comments: Inspected Full bath view.

12.7	Basement study view. Comments: Inspected Basement study view.

12.8	Basement Living Area Comments: Inspected Basement living area view.

12.9	Basement Laundry Area Comments: Inspected Basement laundry area view.

SUMMARY

Ann Arbor Home Inspection P.O. Box 7300 Ann Arbor, Michigan 48107 (734) 369-3003

Client Sample Client 3

Home 1234 Street Name Ann Arbor, MI

This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component to maintain it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function, efficiency, or safety of the home.

This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report.

1. ROOF

1.3	ROOFING DRAINAGE SYSTEMS Inspected, Repair or Replace The gutters need to be cleaned on the front and back of the house to provide better drainage.

2. EXTERIOR

2.0	WALL CLADDING FLASHING AND TRIM Inspected, Repair or Replace Picture 1 shows the siding on the garage which needs scraping, sanding, priming and painting. The siding on the garage is wood bevel siding which is different from the siding on the house which is a wood shingle. Picture 2 shows a crack in one of the shingles on the South side of the house. The South side shingles are in the greatest need of some maintenance. We covered, during the inspection, how to prepare and work with these shingles to get them back into good condition. The key is to close the large gaps through a combination of methods. Use a caulk gun to apply exterior rated construction cement behind all shingles that are curled and pulling off the house. This in combination with small exterior (galvanized) finish nails that are nailed in using smaller diameter drilled pilot holes will help to set the loose shingles back to the house. Where the gaps are large and cracks still need filling, then use Bondo which is an automotive body repair product to fill larger holes or cracks. After all of the repairs have been made, you should at least touch up the repaired areas with the same color paint as the current paint. If you decide to repaint the entire house, you could do that at another time. The repair and fixing of larger cracks is the most important thing to focus on. Painting of the entire house could be left for next year. Also, painting of the entire garage could be approached in the same way. Repair needed areas this year, and fully paint later. Picture 3 shows the siding on the back side of the house which still needs some maintenance, but not as extensive as the South side wall.
2.1	DOORS (Exterior) Inspected, Repair or Replace The brick moulding to the side of the back entry door is bare wood and needs to be sanded, primed and painted. It appears that the resident dog has scratched the moulding and it can be easily repaired (see picture 1). The bottom of the brick moulding on the garage side entry door has suffered dry rot and the moulding on the left bottom should be scraped and you could use Bondo as a means of repair for now. The ideal repair is to replace all of the moulding (top and sides), but with the Bondo, you might find and easy, inexpensive way to currently fix the moulding.
2.3	DECKS, BALCONIES, STOOPS, STEPS, AREAWAYS, PORCHES AND APPLICABLE RAILINGS Inspected, Repair or Replace The concrete patio in the backyard is cracked yet is still serviceable. It would be nice to add a deck over the entire patio area as well as to extend the deck in front of the sliding door in the dining room area. If you installed a wolmanized deck with proper railing, you would probably find your cost fully recoverable when you sell this house in the future. Meanwhile, you would gain the enjoyment of having a really nice backyard living space. Picture 1 shows the view of the main deck area and picture 2 shows the smaller deck extension that would give you access to the dining room sliding door.
2.5	EAVES, SOFFITS AND FASCIAS Inspected, Repair or Replace Picture 1 shows the fascia board and eave on the side of the garage. The trim on the house needs to be scraped, sanded, primed and painted. The garage in particular needs some work this summer to seal the wood from moisture and insect damage. Picture 2 shows the driveway side of the house fascia board which also needs paint maintenance. Picture 3 shows the South side of the house fascia board which also needs paint maintenance.
2.6	GARAGE Inspected, Repair or Replace The garage is not in the same condition as the house, but with paint repairs as already mentioned, it will be serviceable and work well. The only major safety item to fix is the garage door automatic opener. Currently, the garage door will not stop its descent if you try to grab it with your hands. There is an adjustment mechanism in the opener housing which will allow you to adjust the spring tension. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU FIX THIS IMMEDIATELY when moving into the house so your son or other children don't get hurt. Some people install motion detectors to the left and right of the garage door, but at minimum, use the tension adjustment that should be available within the opener unit.
2.7	GARAGE FLOOR Inspected, Repair or Replace The garage floor has one substantial crack where the floor has separated and you now have a trip hazard. It might be possible to use the concrete mudjacking injection method to better level the interior floor.

7. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

7.3	BRANCH CIRCUIT CONDUCTORS, OVERCURRENT DEVICES AND COMPATIBILITY OF THEIR AMPERAGE AND VOLTAGE Inspected, Repair or Replace The electrical panel looks good except for one of the circuit breakers on the right side which has two circuit wires attached. This is called "double tapping" and will not pass electrical code and it is my responsibility to tell you to have it corrected by a licensed electrician. This is an item that you should have the home owner correct as part of your final negotiation. It is a small item and easy to accomplish but important for long term safety.
7.4	CONNECTED DEVICES AND FIXTURES (Observed from a representative number operation of ceiling fans, lighting fixtures, switches and receptacles located inside the house, garage, and on the dwelling's exterior walls) Inspected, Repair or Replace During our inspection, David mentioned not liking the overhead fixture by the front door and in the hallway (see pictures 1 and 2). Both locations could use better selected fixtures for the function. A more organic look would be good by the front door so that fixture didn't need to maintain symmetry on the angled ceiling. In the hallway, a small pendant style fixture could be used that hangs on a wire from a canopy. If you added a similar light over the kitchen counter as I recommended, you could match both of these fixtures and add some color and style to the lighting. I will be glad to provide some suggestions and sources if you like. Picture 3 shows the location on the ceiling where you could hang a pendant light fixture that matches a proposed new one in the hallway.
7.6	OPERATION OF GFCI (GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTERS) Inspected, Repair or Replace Ground fault circuit interrupters should be added near the kitchen sink, the bathroom sink and any outdoor electrical outlets.

10. DOORS, WINDOWS & INTERIORS

10.2	FLOORS Inspected, Repair or Replace All floors are in good condition except for the kitchen vinyl floor which is coming apart at the seams. The most noticeable area is next to the cabinet directly across from the refrigerator.
10.4	COUNTERS AND A REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER OF CABINETS Inspected, Repair or Replace The kitchen is very limited in cabinet storage. There is little room to expand the kitchen and a possible way to gain better storage is to replace the current portable dishwasher with a permanent one that would provide pull out drawers instead of the typical hinged drop door. The dishwasher that I'm recommending is made by Fisher & Paykel and can be purchased for around $1,200. I'm recommending that you replace the base cabinet to the left of the sink with a new unit that would allow for installing this dishwasher in the end opposite the refrigerator (see the arrow in picture 1 for the location). There would be room to pull out both drawers if you use the Fisher & Paykel unit but not if you used a traditional drop door dishwasher. I've included an image of this dishwasher in picture 2 above. The dishwasher front comes in stainless, white and black. Use the following web page link to gain more information about this beautiful piece of equipment: http://www.distinctiveappliance.com/catalog/customer/product.php?productid=16167&cat=271&page=1 In addition, I'm recommending that you replace the sink base cabinet and purchase a new sink and faucet. By renewing this counter and cabinetry, you will gain an easier to use kitchen and full use of your dishwasher. It would be nice to have a deeper sink and one which has a larger washing basin for large pans and pots. The current sink has two small bowels which could be replaced with a new sink that has a larger bowel and a small one or just one large bowel. In addition, you could then add a garbage disposal which the current sink doesn't have. Then, you can store the portable dishwasher (for future resale if you take the Fisher & Paykel to your next home) and install a new base cabinet where the current portable dishwasher is being stored. This would also require a new countertop. To add additional storage for glasses, dishes, etc. you could then purchase and install a 3 foot wide, 12 inch deep, tall wall cabinet that would fit tight against the wall in the dining area (see picture 3). This would provide considerable storage that you don't currently have and really could use. By being 12 inches deep, the cabinet would not stick out as far as the current table. It also wouldn't extend above the open cutout in the wall at the top. A three foot cabinet would still provide several inches of wall to the left and right of the current wall and the two light switches could be moved from the wall to the cabinet sides. There still needs to be some consideration as to where you would place a microwave if you desire one. Other than that, these few improvements would provide a really nice working kitchen within your very limited space. The current vinyl floor is damaged and when replacing cabinetry, you could easily replace the flooring material. The floor measures approximately nine foot by ten foot three inches or is approximately 90 square feet of flooring or 10 square yards. These are just some preliminary ideas and I would be glad to discuss this in more detail at a later time. The kitchen currently is serviceable and the old style cabinets do work. So the changes are definitely an optional home improvement but would enhance your property value for later resale and current enjoyment.
10.5	DOORS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER) Inspected, Repair or Replace All of the doors in the house are hung square and plumb. You could replace the bifold closet door track in hardware for the door in the hallway to make it work more smoothly (see picture 1), however, the door does work currently and the replacement would be to improve operation not because the door needs current repair. If you decided to replace this bifold door, you could use a mirrored door and visually expand the space. But that would be an optional home improvement. The closet doors in two of the bedrooms have been removed (see pictures 2 and 3). If you would like to add new doors, you could use mirrored bifold or sliding door units to visually make each room look bigger. If you selected a white painted frame Stanley door (check Lowes and Home Depot) you would be investing the lowest amount of money for a good serviceable door. In addition, the installation is straightforward and there is no painting involved which saves time.

DISCLOSURE STATEMENT
Ann Arbor Home Inspection

1. Definitions & Scope of the Home Inspection

This home inspection is a non-invasive visual examination of a residential dwelling, performed for a fee, which is designed to identify observed material defects within specific components of said dwelling. Components may include any combination of mechanical, structural, electrical, plumbing, or other essential systems or portions of the home, as identified and agreed to by the Client and Inspector, prior to or during the inspection process.

This home inspection is intended to assist in evaluation of the overall condition of the dwelling. The inspection is based on observation of the visible and apparent condition of the structure and its components on the date of the inspection and not the determination of future conditions.

A home inspection will not reveal every problem that exists or ever could exist, but only those material defects that are reasonably apparent by visual inspection on the day of the inspection.

A material defect is a problem with a residential real property or any portion of it that would have a significant adverse impact on the value of the property or that involves an unreasonable risk to people on the property. The fact that a structural element, system or subsystem is near, at or beyond the end of the normal useful life of such a structural element, system or subsystem is not by itself a material defect.

This inspection report shall describe and identify in written format the inspected systems, structures, and components of the dwelling and shall identify material defects observed. Inspection reports may contain recommendations regarding conditions reported or recommendations for correction, monitoring or further evaluation by professionals.

2. Detailed description of the major systems and accessories to be inspected

Each section of this report contains a Standards of Practice paragraph which immediately follows the section header that describes the major systems and accessories being inspected as well as the items not required to be inspected. These paragraphs have been copied directly from the Standards of Practice of the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI) located at http://www.nachi.org/sop.htm. The inspector follows these Standards of Practice to perform every home inspection. Comments, observations, digital photos, and any other information that is provided above and beyond the language of the NACHI Standards of Practice are provided as a curtesy to client(s) and are for information purposes only and are not considered to be part of the contracted for home inspection.

3. Limitations & Exceptions:

I. An inspection is not technically exhaustive.
II. An inspection will not identify concealed or latent defects.
III. An inspection will not deal with aesthetic concerns or what could be deemed matters of taste, cosmetic, etc.
IV. An inspection will not determine the suitability of the property for any use.
V. An inspection does not determine the market value of the property or its marketability.
VI. An inspection does not determine the advisability or inadvisability of the purchase of the inspected property.
VII. An inspection does not determine the life expectancy of the property or any components or systems therein.
VIII. An inspection does not include items not permanently installed.
IX. These Standards of Practice apply only to homes with four or fewer dwelling units.

4. Exclusions:

I. The inspector is not required to determine:

A. Property boundary lines or encroachments.
B. The condition of any component or system that is not readily accessible.
C. The service life expectancy of any component or system.
D. The size, capacity, BTU, performance, or efficiency of any component or system.
E. The cause or reason of any condition.
F. The cause for the need of repair or replacement of any system or component.
G. Future conditions.
H. The compliance with codes or regulations.
I. The presence of evidence of rodents, animals or insects.
J. The presence of mold, mildew or fungus.
K. The presence of air-borne hazards.
L. The presence of birds.
M. The presence of other flora or fauna.
N. The air quality.
O. The existence of asbestos.
P. The existence of environmental hazards.
Q. The existence of electro-magnetic fields.
R. The presence of hazardous materials including, but not limited to, the presence of lead in paint.
S. Any hazardous waste conditions.
T. Any manufacturer recalls or conformance with manufacturer installation or any information included in the consumer protection bulletin.
U. Operating costs of systems.
V. Replacement or repair cost estimates.
W. The acoustical properties of any systems.
X. Estimates of how much it will cost to run any given system.

II. The inspector is not required to operate:

A. Any system that is shut down or not operable.
B. Any system that does not function properly.
C. Or evaluate low voltage electrical systems such as, but not limited to: 1. Phone lines; 2. Cable lines; 3. Antennae; 4. Lights; and 5. Remote controls.
D. Any system that does not turn on with the use of normal operating controls.
E. Any shut off valve.
F. Any electrical disconnect or over current protection devices.
G. Any alarm systems.
H. Moisture meters, gas detectors or similar equipment.

III. The inspector is not required to:

A. Move any personal items or other obstructions, such as, but not limited to: 1. Throw rugs; 2. Furniture; 3. Floor or wall coverings; 4. Ceiling tiles; 5. Window coverings; 6. Equipment; 7. Plants; 8. Ice; 9. Debris; 10. Snow; 11. Water; 12. Dirt; 13. Foliage; 14. Pets
B. Dismantle, open, or uncover any system or component.
C. Enter or access any area which may, in the opinion of the inspector, to be unsafe or risk personal safety.
D. Enter crawlspaces or other areas that are unsafe or not readily accessible.
E. Inspect underground items such as, but not limited to, underground storage tanks or other indications of their presence, whether abandoned or actively used.
F. Do anything which, in the inspector's opinion, is likely to be unsafe or dangerous to the inspector or others or damage property, such as, but not limited to, walking on roof surfaces, climbing ladders, entering attic spaces or negotiating with dogs.
G. Inspect decorative items.
H. Inspect common elements or areas in multi-unit housing.
I. Inspect intercoms, speaker systems, radio-controlled, security devices or lawn irrigation systems.
J. Offer guarantees or warranties.
K. Offer or perform any engineering services.
L. Offer or perform any trade or professional service other than home inspection.
M. Research the history of the property, report on its potential for alteration, modification, extendibility, or its suitability for a specific or proposed use for occupancy.
N. Determine the age of construction or installation of any system structure, or component of a building, or differentiate between original construction or subsequent additions, improvements, renovations or replacements thereto.
O. Determine the insurability of a property.

IV. The inspector shall not repair or offer to repair a residence which was the subject of home
inspection services provided by the home inspector unless the repair is pursuant to a home
warranty provided by the home inspector.

5. For Benefit of Client(s) Only

This report is provided for the specific benefit of the client(s), and secondary readers of this information should hire a licensed inspector to perform an inspection to meet their specific needs and to obtain any information concerning the inspected property.