Ann Arbor Home Inspection Company P.O. Box 7300 Ann Arbor, Michigan 48107 (734) 369-3003

Client Sample Client 1 (4,200 square foot, 17 year old home)

Home 1234 Street Name Ann Arbor, MI

Real Estate Agent None

Inspection Date  Saturday, May 29, 2004 Weather: Clear Report ID: 0529041

Temperature: Over 65 Inspected By  Richard H. Becker

1. ROOF

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect from ground level or eaves: A. The roof covering. B. The gutters. C. The downspouts. D. The vents, flashings, skylights, chimney and other roof penetrations. E. The general structure of the roof from the readily accessible panels, doors or stairs. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Walk on any roof surface. B. Predict the service life expectancy. C. Inspect underground downspout diverter drainage pipes. D. Remove snow, ice, debris or other conditions that prohibit the observation of the roof surfaces. E. Inspect antennae, lightning arresters, or similar attachments.

1.0

ROOF COVERINGS Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The asphalt shingles are approximately 17 years old and are beginning to curl (see picture). They are at the end of their useful life and even though they might last another three or four years, there is no assurance that they won't leak due to capillary action moving water behind the shingles or because of a bad ice storm or thunderstorm. It would be advisable to reroof this year to prevent any future damage.

1.3

ROOFING DRAINAGE SYSTEMS Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace Currently, the basement is dry and there is no evidence of past water seepage or damage. One of the biggest contributors to foundation failure and water problems is having eavestroughs drop water close to the exterior foundation wall. A number of eavestroughs should be extended further away from the house: 1. Picture 1 shows the eavestrough on the South West corner (master bath corner) of the house. This extension should be at least 6 feet or more and a hinged connector can be used to easily raise the extensions when cutting the lawn. 2. Picture 2 shows the eavestrough on the West side of the house. This extension should be at least 6 feet or more and a hinged connector can be used to easily raise the extensions when cutting the lawn. 3. Picture 3 shows a missing extension on the eavestrough under the rear deck. This extension should be at least 8 feet in length and will be fully concealed by the depth of the deck. The current extension which is lying on the ground is around 4 feet in length and not quite long enough to move water as far as possible away from the foundation wall. 4. Picture 4 shows the eavestrough extension inside the fenced in air conditioner area. This extension should also be at least 6 feet in length.

2. EXTERIOR

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The flashing and trim. B. All exterior doors, decks, stoops, steps, stairs, porches, railings, eaves, soffits, fascias, grading, and walkways. C. And report as in need of repair any spacings between intermediate balusters, spindles, or rails for steps, stairways, balconies, and railings that permit the passage of an object greater than four inches in diameter. D. The vegetation, surface drainage and retaining walls when these are likely to adversely affect the building. E. And describe the exterior wall covering. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect or operate screens, storm windows, shutters, awnings, fences, outbuildings, or exterior accent lighting. B. Inspect items, including window and door flashings, which are not visible or readily accessible from the ground. C. Inspect geological, geotechnical, or hydrological conditions. D. Inspect recreational facilities. E. Inspect seawalls, break-walls and docks. F. Inspect erosion control and earth stabilization measures. G. Inspect for safety type glass. H. Inspect underground utilities. I. Inspect underground items. J. Inspect wells or springs. K. Inspect solar systems. L. Inspect swimming pools or spas. M. Inspect septic systems or cesspools. N. Inspect playground equipment. O. Inspect sprinkler systems. P. Inspect drain fields or drywells. Q. Determine the integrity of the thermal window seals or damaged glass.

2.0

WALL CLADDING FLASHING AND TRIM Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The exterior brick patio wall that surround the laundry room has exposed brick laid on edge as the top finish (see picture). Because brick is porous and freezing temperatures disintegrate bricks which have water that lays on them, typically the tops of exposed walls are capped with metal covering such as copper or painted sheet metal. These bricks will continue to crack and come apart and it would be advisable to add a cap of some kind to protect them.

2.1	DOORS (Exterior) Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The front entry door dead bolt does not latch. When turning the interior knob, I wasn't able to get the dead bolt seated in the matching latch plate. Have a locksmith examine the lock and repair it.

2.2

WINDOWS Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The basement windows on the East side (next to master bath and bedroom) of the house are rusting toward the bottom of the frames and need some caulking. In addition, some of the limestone window ledges on the exterior of the window have come loose and cracked. These loose ledges need to be refastened and any cracks caulked to prevent water from further damaging these window areas. With some reasonable maintenance, these windows should remain in good condition for some time. See pictures 1-4.

2.3

DECKS, BALCONIES, STOOPS, STEPS, AREAWAYS, PORCHES AND APPLICABLE RAILINGS Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. A few of the bricks near the front entry have some hairline cracks and should be caulked (using an exterior silicone caulk) before water seepage and winter freezing begins to break them apart (see picture 1). At this time you have minimal maintenance. If you don't seal these cracks, major damage can occur over the next few years. 2. The rear step coming from the exterior rear door of the laundry room is made out of precast concrete and has a crack across the center of the step (see picture 2). An easy repair would be to caulk this crack and paint the step with the same paint as you use on the garage floor. 3. The deck at the rear of the house has many nails that are protruding above the surface. Have these nails reset (see pictures 3 and 4). In addition, the stain finish on the deck is currently in adequate condition, but if a new top coat was added this year, you would extend the life of the finish and create less maintenance in the future years.

2.4

VEGETATION, GRADING, DRAINAGE, DRIVEWAYS, PATIOS, WALKWAYS AND RETAINING WALLS (With respect to their effect on the condition of the building) Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. The driveway has two large cracks which run the width of the drive. Both should be sealed at minimum. The best repair approach would be to have the cracks carefully cut out and the exposed area refilled with asphalt and leveled back to the current surface of the drive. Then a top coat of asphalt sealer should be applied. One of the cracks has ant nests in it and the repair would remove this problem (see pictures 1 and 2). 2. There is a drain next to the driveway toward the center of the front of the house (see picture 3). It appears that the lawnmower has damaged the top of the drainage pipe and this connection should be examined over time to prevent the drain pipe from coming further apart. There is a root that seems to protect the connection currently and may continue to do so in the future. 3. The brick retaining wall on the East side of the house across from the garage has a brick expansion crack which is beginning to separate (see picture 4). This expansion crack should be filled in with a new flexible material that will keep water from entering the crack and freezing in the winter. Winter freeze will continue to push the separation crack apart until the wall begins to fail at this area. Right now, the wall is in good condition and if sealed should stay that way.

2.6

GARAGE Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The drywall on the ceiling of the garage close to the area where the garage door hangers are installed is cracked. It appears that this is where the sheets of drywall used on the ceiling meet and this crack is the taped edge. The weight of the door and the movement probably stresses this area enough so that over time, the drywall tape separates. This does not appear to be a structural problem. See pictures 1 and 2.

2.7

GARAGE FLOOR Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The garage floor paint has worn off and needs to be sanded to feather the peeling edges back to the surface level of the concrete (see picture). I would suggest repainting the floor using epoxy paint which is a two part chemical process. Once the epoxy paint and accompanying hardener are mixed together and applied, you will have a floor surface which will stand up to heavy car tires for 10 years or more before showing signs of wear. This is the same kind of paint used on factory floors and heavy industrial applications. It is an excellent long term solution for a garage floor and allows for easy mopping to keep the floor clean.

3. BASEMENT, FOUNDATION, CRAWLSPACE & STRUCTURE

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The basement. B. The foundation C. The crawlspace. D. The visible structural components. E. Any present conditions or indications of active water penetration by probing a representative sampling of structural components where deterioration is believed to be present or where clear indications of deterioration are present. F. And report any general indications of foundation movement that are observed, such as but not limited to sheetrock cracks, brick cracks, out-of-square door frames or floor slopes. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Enter any crawlspaces that are not readily accessible or where entry could cause damage or pose a hazard to the inspector in his or her opinion. B. Move stored items or debris. C. Operate sump pumps with inaccessible floats. D. Identify size, spacing, span, location or adequacy of foundation bolting, bracing, joists or support systems. E. Provide any engineering or architectural service. F. Report on the adequacy of any structural system or component.

4. HEATING SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The heating system and describe the energy source and heating method using normal operating controls. B. And report as in need of repair electric furnaces which do not operate. C. And report if inspector deemed the furnace inaccessible. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect or evaluate interiors of flues or chimneys, fire chambers, the heat exchanger, the humidifier or dehumidifier, the electronic air filter, solar heating systems or fuel tanks. B. Inspect underground fuel tanks. C. Determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the heating system. D. Light pilot flames. E. Activate heating, heat pump systems, or other heating systems when ambient temperatures or other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. F. Operate electronic thermostats. G. Evaluate fuel quality.

4.0

HEATING EQUIPMENT Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Inspected 1. Picture 1 shows a view of the two furnaces and water heater located in the basement. 2. I tested both furnaces for high carbon monoxide levels and found both to be safe. Picture 2 shows a view of the Bacharach Monoxer II laboratory grade tester that I use to take measurements.

4.3	CHIMNEYS, FLUES AND VENTS Comments: Inspected I also tested the water heater and flue for carbon dioxide levels using my Bacharach Monoxer II test meter (see picture). The water heater appears to be in good condition.

5. COOLING SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The central cooling equipment using normal operating controls.II. The inspector is not required to: A. Determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the cooling system. B. Inspect window units, through-wall units, or electronic air filters. C. Operate equipment or systems if exterior temperature is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit or when other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment. D. Inspect or determine thermostat calibration, heat anticipation or automatic setbacks or clocks. E. Examine electrical current, coolant fluids or gasses, or coolant leakage.

6. PLUMBING SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall: A. Inspect the main water shut off valve. B. Inspect the water heating system. C. Flush toilets. D. Run water in sinks, tubs, and showers. E. Inspect the interior water supply including all fixtures and faucets. F. Inspect the drain, waste and vent systems, including all fixtures. G. Describe any visible fuel storage systems. H. Inspect the drainage sump pumps testing sumps with accessible floats. I. Inspect and describe the water supply, drain, waste and main fuel shut-off valves, as well as the location of the water main and main fuel shut-off valves. J. Inspect and determine if the water supply is public or private. K. Inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously. L. Inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in installation and identification of hot and cold faucets. M. Inspect and report as in need of repair mechanical drain-stops that are missing or do not operate if installed in sinks, lavatories and tubs. N. Inspect and report as in need of repair commodes that have cracks in the ceramic material, are improperly mounted on the floor, leak, or have tank components which do not operate. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Light pilot flames. B. Determine the size, temperature, age, life expectancy or adequacy of the water heater. C. Inspect interiors of flues or chimneys, water softening or filtering systems, well pumps or tanks, safety or shut-of valves, floor drains or sprinkler systems. D. Determine the exact flow rate, volume, pressure, temperature, or adequacy of the water supply. E. Determine the water quality or potability or the reliability of the water supply or source. F. Open closed plumbing access panels G. Inspect clothes washing machine connections. H. Operate any main, branch or fixture valve except fixture faucets and hose faucets attached to the building. I. Test shower pans, tub and shower surrounds or enclosures for leakage. J. Evaluate the compliance with local or state conservation or energy standards, or the proper design or sizing of any water, waste or venting components, fixtures or piping. K. Determine the effectiveness of anti-siphon, back-flow prevention or drain-stop devices. L. Determine whether there are sufficient clean-outs for effective cleaning of drains. M. Evaluate gas, liquid propane or oil storage tanks. N. Excavate or otherwise uncover the private sewage system or its components to determine size, adequacy or efficiency. O. Inspect water treatment systems or water filters. P. Inspect pressure pumps or bladder tanks.

6.3

INTERIOR WATER SUPPLY AND DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS AND FIXTURES Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. The kitchen sink has a gap between it and the granite countertop (see picture 1). This gap should be caulked and sealed for long term protection. 2. The right water handle in the master bath sink directly across from the whirlpool tub sticks when turned and the washers probably need replacing (see picture 2). 3. The right water handle in the master bath sink directly across from the shower needs to be turned almost 180 degrees before water begins to flow. The washers probably need to be changed in this faucet. 4. The right water handle in the master bath whirlpool makes a high pitched water vibration sound when turned on (see picture 3). 5. The shower head flow control handle sprays water when moved and is getting worn and could use replacing (see picture 4).

7. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The service line. B. The meter box. C. The main disconnect. D. And determine the service amperage. E. Panels, breakers and fuses. F. The grounding. G. The bonding. H. A representative sampling of switches, receptacles, light fixtures, and ground circuit interrupters. I. And report the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch circuit wiring if readily visible. J. And report on any GFCI-tested receptacles in which power is not present, polarity is incorrect, the receptacle is not grounded, is not secured to the wall, the cover is not in place, the ground fault circuit interrupter devices are not properly installed or do not operate properly, or evidence of arcing or excessive heat is present. K. The service entrance conductors and the condition of their sheathing. L. The ground fault circuit interrupters with a GFCI tester. M. And describe the amperage rating of the service. N. And report the absence of smoke detectors. O. Service entrance cables and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the integrity of the insulation, drip loop, or separation of conductors at weatherheads and clearances. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Insert any tool, probe or device into the main or sub-panels. B. Operate electrical systems that are shut down. C. Remove panel covers or dead front covers if not readily accessible. D. Operate over current protection devices. E. Operate non-accessible smoke detectors. F. Measure or determine the amperage or voltage of the main service if not visibly labeled. G. Inspect the alarm system and components. H. Inspect the ancillary wiring. I. Activate any electrical systems or branch circuits which are not energized. J. Operate overload devices. K. Inspect low voltage systems, electrical de-icing tapes, swimming pool wiring or any time-controlled devices. L. Verify the continuity of the connected service ground. M. Inspect private or emergency electrical supply sources, including but not limited to generators, windmills, photovoltaic solar collectors, or battery or electrical storage facility. N. Inspect spark or lightning arrestors. O. Conduct drop voltage calculations. P. Determine the accuracy of breaker labeling.

7.1	SERVICE AND GROUNDING EQUIPMENT, MAIN OVERCURRENT DEVICE, MAIN AND DISTRIBUTION PANELS Comments: Inspected I examined the main electrical panel on the interior and found all of the wiring in good order.

7.4

CONNECTED DEVICES AND FIXTURES (Observed from a representative number operation of ceiling fans, lighting fixtures, switches and receptacles located inside the house, garage, and on the dwelling's exterior walls) Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace There are three exterior electrical outlets which have weatherproof covers but no GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets. It is advisable to replace the current three prong outlets with GFCI types. This ensures better safety when operating electrical appliances outdoors. One outlet is located to the right of the front entry door, one is located toward the middle of the rear deck and the third to the left of the garage doors. See pictures 1-3.

7.6

OPERATION OF GFCI (GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTERS) Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. All bathrooms have GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets installed near the sink areas. I couldn't find a GFCI outlet that was attached to the kitchen outlets. Gerry didn't know if one had been installed and without finding the control outlet, it would be a good idea to have this examined further to determine if one needs to be installed. I suspect that it does. 2. In addition, the three outlets that should have GFCI protection were not installed correctly. When the new granite countertops where put in about a year ago, the backsplash behind the counters was replaced with tile. The three outlets in this wall are either installed crooked or the outlet boxes themselves are loose. An electrician should be contacted to fix these three outlets and at the same time to determine if they might have been attached to a GFCI circuit that we couldn't find during the inspection. See pictures 1-3. 3. The outlet beneath the sink in the kitchen doesn't appear to have any purpose. Either the outlet could be capped with a solid cover or it should be converted to a GFCI type outlet. See picture 4. 4. The bar sink in the living room doesn't appear to have a GFCI outlet. When repairing the kitchen outlets, have the electrician check this outlet and if not on a circuit that I didn't find, add this to the kitchen GFCI outlets.

8. FIREPLACE(S)

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The fireplace, and open and close the damper door if readily accessible and operable. B. Hearth extensions and other permanently installed components. C. And report as in need of repair deficiencies in the lintel, hearth and material surrounding the fireplace, including clearance from combustible materials II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect the vent system. B. Inspect the interior of the chimney or flue, fire doors or screens, seals or mantels. C. Determine the need for a chimney sweep. D. Operate gas fireplace inserts. E. Light pilot flames. F. Determine the appropriateness of such installation. G. Inspect automatic fuel feed devices. H. Inspect combustion make up devices. I. Inspect heat distribution assists whether gravity controlled or fan assisted. J. Ignite or extinguish fires. K. Determine draft characteristics. L. Move fireplace inserts, stoves, or firebox contents. M. Determine adequacy of draft, perform a smoke test or dismantle or remove any component.

8.0	DAMPER DOOR OPERATION Comments: Inspected I examined the flues in both fireplaces and found them to be in good condition and have included a picture that will allow you to observe the flue lining.

8.3	GAS/LP FIRELOGS AND FIREPLACES Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Inspected Fireplace views.

9. ATTIC - VENTILATION, INSULATION & STRUCTURE

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall inspect: A. The insulation in unfinished spaces. B. The ventilation of attic spaces. C. Mechanical ventilation systems. D. And report on the general absence or lack of insulation. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Enter the attic or unfinished spaces that are not readily accessible or where entry could cause damage or pose a safety hazard to the inspector in his or her opinion. B. To move or touch insulation. C. To move or touch vapor retarders. D. Break or otherwise damage the surface finish or weather seal on or around access panels and covers. E. Identify the composition or the exact R-value of insulation material. F. Activate thermostatically operated fans. G. Determine the types of materials used in insulation/wrapping of pipes, ducts, jackets, boilers, and wiring.

9.2	VENTING SYSTEMS (Kitchens, baths and laundry) Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The dryer vent in the laundry room is made out of flexible metal with ridges. These ridges collect lint which easily becomes a fire hazard. Replace this flexible style venting with a solid metal vent pipe.

9.4	ROOF STRUCTURE AND ATTIC Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Comments: Inspected The attic appears to be in good condition (see pictures 1-4) and is well insulated.

10. DOORS, WINDOWS & INTERIORS

Standards of Practice: I. The inspector shall: A. Open and close a representative number of doors and windows. B. Inspect the walls, ceilings, steps, stairways, and railings. C. Inspect garage doors and garage door openers by operating first by remote (if available) and then by the installed automatic door control. D. And report as in need of repair any installed electronic sensors that are not operable or not installed at proper heights above the garage door. E. And report as in need of repair any door locks or side ropes that have not been removed or disabled when garage door opener is in use. F. And report as in need of repair any windows that are obviously fogged or display other evidence of broken seals. II. The inspector is not required to: A. Inspect paint, wallpaper, window treatments or finish treatments. B. Inspect central vacuum systems. C. Inspect safety glazing in locations subject to human impact. D. Inspect security components. E. Evaluate the fastening of countertops, cabinets, sink tops and fixtures, or firewall compromises. F. Move furniture, stored items, or any coverings like carpets or rugs in order to inspect the concealed floor structure. G. Move drop ceiling tiles. H. Inspect or move any household appliances. I. Inspect or operate equipment housed in the garage except as otherwise noted. J. Verify or certify safe operation of any auto reverse or related safety function of a garage door. K. Operate or evaluate security bar release and opening mechanisms, whether interior or exterior, including compliance with local, state, or federal standards. L. Operate any system, appliance or component that requires the use of special keys, codes, combinations, or devices. M. Operate or evaluate self-cleaning oven cycles or signal lights. N. Determine leakage from microwave ovens. O. Operate or examine any sauna, steam-jenny, kiln, toaster, ice-maker, coffee-maker, can-opener, bread-warmer, blender, instant hot water dispenser, or other small, ancillary devices. P. Inspect elevators. Q. Inspect central vacuums. R. Inspect appliances. S. Inspect items not permanently installed. T. Examine or operate any above-ground, movable, freestanding, or otherwise non-permanently installed pool/spa or self-contained equipment. U. Come into contact with any pool or spa water in order to determine the system structure or components. V. Determine the adequacy of spa jet water force or bubble effect. W. Determine the structural integrity or leakage of a pool or spa.

10.2

FLOORS Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The only noticeable floor cracks were in one of the marble tiles in the entry (see picture 1) and the edge of the kitchen tile floor between the garage entry and the kitchen (see picture 2). Gerry mentioned that he did have some additional unused kitchen floor tiles which could be used to repair the edge of the chipped step. The crack in the marble tile in the entry is small and probably won't be noticed since there is a grain in the tile which tends to mask the cracked area well.

10.4

COUNTERS AND A REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER OF CABINETS Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. I examined all of the kitchen and bath cabinets and found them to be in good condition for being 17 years of age. The cabinets are wearing normally and could be cleaned up and waxed to further preserve them. The hinges on the cabinets, however, are beginning to lose their spring and it would be advisable to considering replacing all of the hinges (see picture). Other than the labor to do this, the hinges themselves are covered under a lifetime warranty by the company that made them. The hinges are made by Youngdale in Vista, California. The hinge is their standard knife hinge and you will find a description of the hinge and the lifetime warranty reference on the following web page: http://www.youngdale.com/standard.htm I would suggest calling the company at (760) 727-0644 to find out the terms of their warranty. Typically all that is required is to inform them of the number of hinges needs, to send this along with one hinge and a small shipping and handling fee (typically $10) to the company. 2. The knobs on all of the cabinets are somewhat loose and should be tightened.

10.5

DOORS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER) Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. The double doors in the study do not shut and rub on the carpet (see picture 1). They both need planing at the bottoms to fix them. 2. The door in the back bedroom above the laundry room needs planing at the top (see picture 2). Currently it rubs against the top of the door frame. 3. The door in the full bath of the front bedroom (directly above the garage) that separates the sink area from the tub area doesn't latch well without pushing slightly on the door (see picture 3). This door could use some adjusting. 4. The right side closet bifold door in the bedroom above the master bath area needs adjusting (see picture 4).

10.6

WINDOWS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER) Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7 Picture 8 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. The front windows on the South side of the house appear to have a fogging problem. When I arrived at the house at 10AM, the dining room windows were fogged (see picture 1). It appears that other windows on this side of the house are doing the same thing over time. The windows are made by Pella and are of the air vented type. This means that there isn't a vacuum between the two pieces of glass, but rather an air barrier. The inside of each window can be removed to clean the inside surface of these two glass panes. I did some investigation to see what other people are doing to reduce the fogging in these types of windows. My research came up with the following conclusions: An air vented window is a window with two or more layers that has air between the panes and has some small air leaks at the edges. So for example, a single glazed window with a storm window is an air vented window. Pella makes air vented and sealed edge windows. The air vented Pellas have little holes leading from the air gap between two layers of glass to the outside. Here are a few important things to know about air vented windows. Sometimes they fog up. Sometimes debris gets between the layers (particles and arthropods mostly) a) Fogging happens when the dewpoint is reached inside the window. This happens for a few different reasons. First, if warm air enters the gap between the panes moving from the warm air mass towards the cool air mass, the air is cooling as it passes through the window, increasing the likelihood of condensation. The solutions: plan the air pressure relationship between the inside of your house and the outside so that air moves from the cold air mass towards the warmer air mass, drying out the window interior and air vent the window to the colder side. What this comes down to in practice is: * For heating climates - depressurize the house (with all due respect to backdrafting, spillage and other running negative issues) and air vent to the outside (e.g. tight prime window, leaky storm) and you won't have chronic condensation between the panes. (You can see that observation of condensation on windows can tell a lot about whether the prime window or the storm is leaky or tight) * For cooling climates - pressurize air conditioned houses and air vent to the inside (e.g. leaky prime, tight storm). b. Another reason that condensation occurs in the gap is if the window and storm are leaky enough for moisture to enter because of air pressure or partial water vapor pressure differences , but tight enough so moisture that migrates in during the day has trouble getting back out at night when the glazing cools off. Then the dewpoint is reached and the window fogs. Pella had a lot of problems with this because the air vent hole size they use attracts larvae and hosts for some of the mud-dauber species of wasp. Pella found that changing the hole size changes that. You can also clean the hole out with a nail when the window fogs. e. Dirt, dust and bugs do get between the panes. The holes may be too big. Keep the vents small, or covered with filter fabric, and make it easy to open the gap and clean them. 2. The majority of the casement windows are peeling on the exterior portion of the frame in which the casement window is enclosed (see pictures 2-4). It is important to have these areas scraped, primed and repainted to preserve the exposed wood. In addition, have the casement hardware cleaned and sprayed with a lubricant such as WD 40. Currently the windows are hard to open and the lubricant will make them operate more smoothly. 3. The rear sliding doors thresholds need revarnishing and cleaning and lubricating (see picture 5). 4. The removable mullions (window panes) on the rear sliding doors in the living room are loose and easily fall out of the door frame when touched (see picture 6). They need adjustment. 5. The left window in the upstairs bedroom directly above the master bath is stuck and won't open (see picture 7). It needs repair. 6. The far left window in the upstairs front bedroom above the garage doesn't work (see picture 8). The casement crank needs repair. 7. The right closet door in the laundry room fits too tight in the opening and needs some minor track adjustment.

11. BUILT-IN KITCHEN APPLIANCES

Not a part of the National Association of Home Inspectors Standards of Practice and performed as a curtesy for client(s): I. The home inspector may observe and operate the basic functions of the following kitchen appliances: Permanently installed dishwasher, through its normal cycle; Range, cook top, and permanently installed oven; Trash compactor; Garbage disposal; Ventilation equipment or range hood; and Permanently installed microwave oven. The home inspector is not required to observe: Clocks, timers, self-cleaning oven function, or thermostats for calibration or automatic operation; Non built-in appliances; or Refrigeration units. The home inspector is not required to operate: Appliances in use; or Any appliance that is shut down or otherwise inoperable.

11.0	DISHWASHER Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Inspected, Repair or Replace The dishwasher wasn't installed plumb to the opening underneath the granite countertop. One side is sticking out further than the other. See pictures 1-2.

12. COMPLIMENTARY PHOTO VIEWS

Not a part of the National Association of Home Inspectors Standards of Practice and performed as a curtesy for client(s).

12.0	Welcome Comments: Inspected Front entry door.

12.1	Entry Area Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Inspected Entry view.

12.2	Staircase Comments: Inspected Staircase view.

12.3	Dining Room Comments: Inspected Dining room view.

12.4	Living Room Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Comments: Inspected Living room views.

12.5	Kitchen Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Inspected Kitchen view.

12.6	Kitchen Dining Area Comments: Inspected Kitchen dining area view.

12.7	Main Floor 1/2 Bathroom (between garage entry and kitchen) Comments: Inspected 1/2 bathroom view.

12.8	Laundry Room (between garage entry and kitchen) Comments: Inspected Laundry room view.

12.9	Garage Comments: Inspected Garage view.

12.10

Hallway to Master Study and Master Bedroom Wing Comments: Inspected Hallway view.

12.11

Main Floor Study Comments: Inspected Study view.

12.12

Main Floor 1/2 Bathroom (next to master bedroom suite) Comments: Inspected 1/2 bathroom view.

12.13

Master Bedroom Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Comments: Inspected Master bedroom views.

12.14

Master Bathroom Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7 Picture 8 Comments: Inspected Views of master bathroom - 2 dressings areas and 2 walkin closets.

12.15

Upstairs Bedroom 1 (closest to staircase landing) With Walk In Bathroom Picture 1 Picture 2 Comments: Inspected Bedroom 1 view.

12.16

Upstairs Bedroom 2 (front of house) With Walk In Bathroom Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Comments: Inspected Bedroom 2 view.

12.17

Upstairs Bedroom at Rear of House Comments: Inspected View of bedroom.

12.18

Basement Stairs Comments: Inspected Basement stairs view.

12.19

Basement Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7 Comments: Inspected Views of basement.

SUMMARY

Ann Arbor Home Inspection Company P.O. Box 7300 Ann Arbor, Michigan 48107 (734) 369-3003

Client Sample Client 1

Home 1234 Street Name Ann Arbor, MI

This summary shall not contain recommendations for routine upkeep of a system or component to maintain it in proper functioning condition or recommendations to upgrade or enhance the function, efficiency, or safety of the home.

This Summary is not the entire report. The complete report may include additional information of concern to the customer. It is recommended that the customer read the complete report.

1. ROOF

1.0

ROOF COVERINGS Inspected, Repair or Replace The asphalt shingles are approximately 17 years old and are beginning to curl (see picture). They are at the end of their useful life and even though they might last another three or four years, there is no assurance that they won't leak due to capillary action moving water behind the shingles or because of a bad ice storm or thunderstorm. It would be advisable to reroof this year to prevent any future damage.

1.3

ROOFING DRAINAGE SYSTEMS Inspected, Repair or Replace Currently, the basement is dry and there is no evidence of past water seepage or damage. One of the biggest contributors to foundation failure and water problems is having eavestroughs drop water close to the exterior foundation wall. A number of eavestroughs should be extended further away from the house: 1. Picture 1 shows the eavestrough on the South West corner (master bath corner) of the house. This extension should be at least 6 feet or more and a hinged connector can be used to easily raise the extensions when cutting the lawn. 2. Picture 2 shows the eavestrough on the West side of the house. This extension should be at least 6 feet or more and a hinged connector can be used to easily raise the extensions when cutting the lawn. 3. Picture 3 shows a missing extension on the eavestrough under the rear deck. This extension should be at least 8 feet in length and will be fully concealed by the depth of the deck. The current extension which is lying on the ground is around 4 feet in length and not quite long enough to move water as far as possible away from the foundation wall. 4. Picture 4 shows the eavestrough extension inside the fenced in air conditioner area. This extension should also be at least 6 feet in length.

2. EXTERIOR

2.0	WALL CLADDING FLASHING AND TRIM Inspected, Repair or Replace The exterior brick patio wall that surround the laundry room has exposed brick laid on edge as the top finish (see picture). Because brick is porous and freezing temperatures disintegrate bricks which have water that lays on them, typically the tops of exposed walls are capped with metal covering such as copper or painted sheet metal. These bricks will continue to crack and come apart and it would be advisable to add a cap of some kind to protect them.
2.1	DOORS (Exterior) Inspected, Repair or Replace The front entry door dead bolt does not latch. When turning the interior knob, I wasn't able to get the dead bolt seated in the matching latch plate. Have a locksmith examine the lock and repair it.
2.2	WINDOWS Inspected, Repair or Replace The basement windows on the East side (next to master bath and bedroom) of the house are rusting toward the bottom of the frames and need some caulking. In addition, some of the limestone window ledges on the exterior of the window have come loose and cracked. These loose ledges need to be refastened and any cracks caulked to prevent water from further damaging these window areas. With some reasonable maintenance, these windows should remain in good condition for some time. See pictures 1-4.
2.3	DECKS, BALCONIES, STOOPS, STEPS, AREAWAYS, PORCHES AND APPLICABLE RAILINGS Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. A few of the bricks near the front entry have some hairline cracks and should be caulked (using an exterior silicone caulk) before water seepage and winter freezing begins to break them apart (see picture 1). At this time you have minimal maintenance. If you don't seal these cracks, major damage can occur over the next few years. 2. The rear step coming from the exterior rear door of the laundry room is made out of precast concrete and has a crack across the center of the step (see picture 2). An easy repair would be to caulk this crack and paint the step with the same paint as you use on the garage floor. 3. The deck at the rear of the house has many nails that are protruding above the surface. Have these nails reset (see pictures 3 and 4). In addition, the stain finish on the deck is currently in adequate condition, but if a new top coat was added this year, you would extend the life of the finish and create less maintenance in the future years.
2.4	VEGETATION, GRADING, DRAINAGE, DRIVEWAYS, PATIOS, WALKWAYS AND RETAINING WALLS (With respect to their effect on the condition of the building) Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. The driveway has two large cracks which run the width of the drive. Both should be sealed at minimum. The best repair approach would be to have the cracks carefully cut out and the exposed area refilled with asphalt and leveled back to the current surface of the drive. Then a top coat of asphalt sealer should be applied. One of the cracks has ant nests in it and the repair would remove this problem (see pictures 1 and 2). 2. There is a drain next to the driveway toward the center of the front of the house (see picture 3). It appears that the lawnmower has damaged the top of the drainage pipe and this connection should be examined over time to prevent the drain pipe from coming further apart. There is a root that seems to protect the connection currently and may continue to do so in the future. 3. The brick retaining wall on the East side of the house across from the garage has a brick expansion crack which is beginning to separate (see picture 4). This expansion crack should be filled in with a new flexible material that will keep water from entering the crack and freezing in the winter. Winter freeze will continue to push the separation crack apart until the wall begins to fail at this area. Right now, the wall is in good condition and if sealed should stay that way.
2.6	GARAGE Inspected, Repair or Replace The drywall on the ceiling of the garage close to the area where the garage door hangers are installed is cracked. It appears that this is where the sheets of drywall used on the ceiling meet and this crack is the taped edge. The weight of the door and the movement probably stresses this area enough so that over time, the drywall tape separates. This does not appear to be a structural problem. See pictures 1 and 2.
2.7	GARAGE FLOOR Inspected, Repair or Replace The garage floor paint has worn off and needs to be sanded to feather the peeling edges back to the surface level of the concrete (see picture). I would suggest repainting the floor using epoxy paint which is a two part chemical process. Once the epoxy paint and accompanying hardener are mixed together and applied, you will have a floor surface which will stand up to heavy car tires for 10 years or more before showing signs of wear. This is the same kind of paint used on factory floors and heavy industrial applications. It is an excellent long term solution for a garage floor and allows for easy mopping to keep the floor clean.

6. PLUMBING SYSTEM

6.3

INTERIOR WATER SUPPLY AND DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS AND FIXTURES Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. The kitchen sink has a gap between it and the granite countertop (see picture 1). This gap should be caulked and sealed for long term protection. 2. The right water handle in the master bath sink directly across from the whirlpool tub sticks when turned and the washers probably need replacing (see picture 2). 3. The right water handle in the master bath sink directly across from the shower needs to be turned almost 180 degrees before water begins to flow. The washers probably need to be changed in this faucet. 4. The right water handle in the master bath whirlpool makes a high pitched water vibration sound when turned on (see picture 3). 5. The shower head flow control handle sprays water when moved and is getting worn and could use replacing (see picture 4).

7. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

7.4

CONNECTED DEVICES AND FIXTURES (Observed from a representative number operation of ceiling fans, lighting fixtures, switches and receptacles located inside the house, garage, and on the dwelling's exterior walls) Inspected, Repair or Replace There are three exterior electrical outlets which have weatherproof covers but no GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets. It is advisable to replace the current three prong outlets with GFCI types. This ensures better safety when operating electrical appliances outdoors. One outlet is located to the right of the front entry door, one is located toward the middle of the rear deck and the third to the left of the garage doors. See pictures 1-3.

7.6

OPERATION OF GFCI (GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTERS) Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. All bathrooms have GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets installed near the sink areas. I couldn't find a GFCI outlet that was attached to the kitchen outlets. Gerry didn't know if one had been installed and without finding the control outlet, it would be a good idea to have this examined further to determine if one needs to be installed. I suspect that it does. 2. In addition, the three outlets that should have GFCI protection were not installed correctly. When the new granite countertops where put in about a year ago, the backsplash behind the counters was replaced with tile. The three outlets in this wall are either installed crooked or the outlet boxes themselves are loose. An electrician should be contacted to fix these three outlets and at the same time to determine if they might have been attached to a GFCI circuit that we couldn't find during the inspection. See pictures 1-3. 3. The outlet beneath the sink in the kitchen doesn't appear to have any purpose. Either the outlet could be capped with a solid cover or it should be converted to a GFCI type outlet. See picture 4. 4. The bar sink in the living room doesn't appear to have a GFCI outlet. When repairing the kitchen outlets, have the electrician check this outlet and if not on a circuit that I didn't find, add this to the kitchen GFCI outlets.

9. ATTIC - VENTILATION, INSULATION & STRUCTURE

9.2	VENTING SYSTEMS (Kitchens, baths and laundry) Inspected, Repair or Replace The dryer vent in the laundry room is made out of flexible metal with ridges. These ridges collect lint which easily becomes a fire hazard. Replace this flexible style venting with a solid metal vent pipe.

10. DOORS, WINDOWS & INTERIORS

10.2	FLOORS Inspected, Repair or Replace The only noticeable floor cracks were in one of the marble tiles in the entry (see picture 1) and the edge of the kitchen tile floor between the garage entry and the kitchen (see picture 2). Gerry mentioned that he did have some additional unused kitchen floor tiles which could be used to repair the edge of the chipped step. The crack in the marble tile in the entry is small and probably won't be noticed since there is a grain in the tile which tends to mask the cracked area well.
10.4	COUNTERS AND A REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER OF CABINETS Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. I examined all of the kitchen and bath cabinets and found them to be in good condition for being 17 years of age. The cabinets are wearing normally and could be cleaned up and waxed to further preserve them. The hinges on the cabinets, however, are beginning to lose their spring and it would be advisable to considering replacing all of the hinges (see picture). Other than the labor to do this, the hinges themselves are covered under a lifetime warranty by the company that made them. The hinges are made by Youngdale in Vista, California. The hinge is their standard knife hinge and you will find a description of the hinge and the lifetime warranty reference on the following web page: http://www.youngdale.com/standard.htm I would suggest calling the company at (760) 727-0644 to find out the terms of their warranty. Typically all that is required is to inform them of the number of hinges needs, to send this along with one hinge and a small shipping and handling fee (typically $10) to the company. 2. The knobs on all of the cabinets are somewhat loose and should be tightened.
10.5	DOORS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER) Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. The double doors in the study do not shut and rub on the carpet (see picture 1). They both need planing at the bottoms to fix them. 2. The door in the back bedroom above the laundry room needs planing at the top (see picture 2). Currently it rubs against the top of the door frame. 3. The door in the full bath of the front bedroom (directly above the garage) that separates the sink area from the tub area doesn't latch well without pushing slightly on the door (see picture 3). This door could use some adjusting. 4. The right side closet bifold door in the bedroom above the master bath area needs adjusting (see picture 4).
10.6	WINDOWS (REPRESENTATIVE NUMBER) Inspected, Repair or Replace 1. The front windows on the South side of the house appear to have a fogging problem. When I arrived at the house at 10AM, the dining room windows were fogged (see picture 1). It appears that other windows on this side of the house are doing the same thing over time. The windows are made by Pella and are of the air vented type. This means that there isn't a vacuum between the two pieces of glass, but rather an air barrier. The inside of each window can be removed to clean the inside surface of these two glass panes. I did some investigation to see what other people are doing to reduce the fogging in these types of windows. My research came up with the following conclusions: An air vented window is a window with two or more layers that has air between the panes and has some small air leaks at the edges. So for example, a single glazed window with a storm window is an air vented window. Pella makes air vented and sealed edge windows. The air vented Pellas have little holes leading from the air gap between two layers of glass to the outside. Here are a few important things to know about air vented windows. Sometimes they fog up. Sometimes debris gets between the layers (particles and arthropods mostly) a) Fogging happens when the dewpoint is reached inside the window. This happens for a few different reasons. First, if warm air enters the gap between the panes moving from the warm air mass towards the cool air mass, the air is cooling as it passes through the window, increasing the likelihood of condensation. The solutions: plan the air pressure relationship between the inside of your house and the outside so that air moves from the cold air mass towards the warmer air mass, drying out the window interior and air vent the window to the colder side. What this comes down to in practice is: * For heating climates - depressurize the house (with all due respect to backdrafting, spillage and other running negative issues) and air vent to the outside (e.g. tight prime window, leaky storm) and you won't have chronic condensation between the panes. (You can see that observation of condensation on windows can tell a lot about whether the prime window or the storm is leaky or tight) * For cooling climates - pressurize air conditioned houses and air vent to the inside (e.g. leaky prime, tight storm). b. Another reason that condensation occurs in the gap is if the window and storm are leaky enough for moisture to enter because of air pressure or partial water vapor pressure differences , but tight enough so moisture that migrates in during the day has trouble getting back out at night when the glazing cools off. Then the dewpoint is reached and the window fogs. Pella had a lot of problems with this because the air vent hole size they use attracts larvae and hosts for some of the mud-dauber species of wasp. Pella found that changing the hole size changes that. You can also clean the hole out with a nail when the window fogs. e. Dirt, dust and bugs do get between the panes. The holes may be too big. Keep the vents small, or covered with filter fabric, and make it easy to open the gap and clean them. 2. The majority of the casement windows are peeling on the exterior portion of the frame in which the casement window is enclosed (see pictures 2-4). It is important to have these areas scraped, primed and repainted to preserve the exposed wood. In addition, have the casement hardware cleaned and sprayed with a lubricant such as WD 40. Currently the windows are hard to open and the lubricant will make them operate more smoothly. 3. The rear sliding doors thresholds need revarnishing and cleaning and lubricating (see picture 5). 4. The removable mullions (window panes) on the rear sliding doors in the living room are loose and easily fall out of the door frame when touched (see picture 6). They need adjustment. 5. The left window in the upstairs bedroom directly above the master bath is stuck and won't open (see picture 7). It needs repair. 6. The far left window in the upstairs front bedroom above the garage doesn't work (see picture 8). The casement crank needs repair. 7. The right closet door in the laundry room fits too tight in the opening and needs some minor track adjustment.

11. BUILT-IN KITCHEN APPLIANCES

11.0	DISHWASHER Inspected, Repair or Replace The dishwasher wasn't installed plumb to the opening underneath the granite countertop. One side is sticking out further than the other. See pictures 1-2.

DISCLOSURE STATEMENT
Ann Arbor Home Inspection Company

1. Definitions & Scope of the Home Inspection

This home inspection is a non-invasive visual examination of a residential dwelling, performed for a fee, which is designed to identify observed material defects within specific components of said dwelling. Components may include any combination of mechanical, structural, electrical, plumbing, or other essential systems or portions of the home, as identified and agreed to by the Client and Inspector, prior to or during the inspection process.

This home inspection is intended to assist in evaluation of the overall condition of the dwelling. The inspection is based on observation of the visible and apparent condition of the structure and its components on the date of the inspection and not the determination of future conditions.

A home inspection will not reveal every problem that exists or ever could exist, but only those material defects that are reasonably apparent by visual inspection on the day of the inspection.

A material defect is a problem with a residential real property or any portion of it that would have a significant adverse impact on the value of the property or that involves an unreasonable risk to people on the property. The fact that a structural element, system or subsystem is near, at or beyond the end of the normal useful life of such a structural element, system or subsystem is not by itself a material defect.

This inspection report shall describe and identify in written format the inspected systems, structures, and components of the dwelling and shall identify material defects observed. Inspection reports may contain recommendations regarding conditions reported or recommendations for correction, monitoring or further evaluation by professionals.

2. Detailed description of the major systems and accessories to be inspected

Each section of this report contains a Standards of Practice paragraph which immediately follows the section header that describes the major systems and accessories being inspected as well as the items not required to be inspected. These paragraphs have been copied directly from the Standards of Practice of the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI) located at http://www.nachi.org/sop.htm. The inspector follows these Standards of Practice to perform every home inspection. Comments, observations, digital photos, and any other information that is provided above and beyond the language of the NACHI Standards of Practice are provided as a curtesy to client(s) and are for information purposes only and are not considered to be part of the contracted for home inspection.

3. Limitations & Exceptions:

I. An inspection is not technically exhaustive.
II. An inspection will not identify concealed or latent defects.
III. An inspection will not deal with aesthetic concerns or what could be deemed matters of taste, cosmetic, etc.
IV. An inspection will not determine the suitability of the property for any use.
V. An inspection does not determine the market value of the property or its marketability.
VI. An inspection does not determine the advisability or inadvisability of the purchase of the inspected property.
VII. An inspection does not determine the life expectancy of the property or any components or systems therein.
VIII. An inspection does not include items not permanently installed.
IX. These Standards of Practice apply only to homes with four or fewer dwelling units.

4. Exclusions:

I. The inspector is not required to determine:

A. Property boundary lines or encroachments.
B. The condition of any component or system that is not readily accessible.
C. The service life expectancy of any component or system.
D. The size, capacity, BTU, performance, or efficiency of any component or system.
E. The cause or reason of any condition.
F. The cause for the need of repair or replacement of any system or component.
G. Future conditions.
H. The compliance with codes or regulations.
I. The presence of evidence of rodents, animals or insects.
J. The presence of mold, mildew or fungus.
K. The presence of air-borne hazards.
L. The presence of birds.
M. The presence of other flora or fauna.
N. The air quality.
O. The existence of asbestos.
P. The existence of environmental hazards.
Q. The existence of electro-magnetic fields.
R. The presence of hazardous materials including, but not limited to, the presence of lead in paint.
S. Any hazardous waste conditions.
T. Any manufacturer recalls or conformance with manufacturer installation or any information included in the consumer protection bulletin.
U. Operating costs of systems.
V. Replacement or repair cost estimates.
W. The acoustical properties of any systems.
X. Estimates of how much it will cost to run any given system.

II. The inspector is not required to operate:

A. Any system that is shut down or not operable.
B. Any system that does not function properly.
C. Or evaluate low voltage electrical systems such as, but not limited to: 1. Phone lines; 2. Cable lines; 3. Antennae; 4. Lights; and 5. Remote controls.
D. Any system that does not turn on with the use of normal operating controls.
E. Any shut off valve.
F. Any electrical disconnect or over current protection devices.
G. Any alarm systems.
H. Moisture meters, gas detectors or similar equipment.

III. The inspector is not required to:

A. Move any personal items or other obstructions, such as, but not limited to: 1. Throw rugs; 2. Furniture; 3. Floor or wall coverings; 4. Ceiling tiles; 5. Window coverings; 6. Equipment; 7. Plants; 8. Ice; 9. Debris; 10. Snow; 11. Water; 12. Dirt; 13. Foliage; 14. Pets
B. Dismantle, open, or uncover any system or component.
C. Enter or access any area which may, in the opinion of the inspector, to be unsafe or risk personal safety.
D. Enter crawlspaces or other areas that are unsafe or not readily accessible.
E. Inspect underground items such as, but not limited to, underground storage tanks or other indications of their presence, whether abandoned or actively used.
F. Do anything which, in the inspector's opinion, is likely to be unsafe or dangerous to the inspector or others or damage property, such as, but not limited to, walking on roof surfaces, climbing ladders, entering attic spaces or negotiating with dogs.
G. Inspect decorative items.
H. Inspect common elements or areas in multi-unit housing.
I. Inspect intercoms, speaker systems, radio-controlled, security devices or lawn irrigation systems.
J. Offer guarantees or warranties.
K. Offer or perform any engineering services.
L. Offer or perform any trade or professional service other than home inspection.
M. Research the history of the property, report on its potential for alteration, modification, extendibility, or its suitability for a specific or proposed use for occupancy.
N. Determine the age of construction or installation of any system structure, or component of a building, or differentiate between original construction or subsequent additions, improvements, renovations or replacements thereto.
O. Determine the insurability of a property.

IV. The inspector shall not repair or offer to repair a residence which was the subject of home
inspection services provided by the home inspector unless the repair is pursuant to a home
warranty provided by the home inspector.

5. For Benefit of Client(s) Only

This report is provided for the specific benefit of the client(s), and secondary readers of this information should hire a licensed inspector to perform an inspection to meet their specific needs and to obtain any information concerning the inspected property.